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Hand work : To weave and to tie : an interpretation of kasuri and ikat

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研究ノ

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Hand work t

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weave and t

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- an

inte 「pretation

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Kumiko N

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The overall impressionofikattextiles issimilar tokasuri 1.Use of theseed-thread, which worksasa guide to mark

textilesand theird1百巴rencesreflecttheculturesand traditions where to tie by hand. This method can give thepattern

inpattern,design.color and material. Kasuri isa Japanese morefluidity and fine outlines than geometric [)日 tterns with word directing Japanese ikattextile.which has itsown authentichand tying.It isoft巴n used for thecomplicated,

unique development butKasuri is notcompletely synonym to picture like patterns.

ikat. First,theEnglish word "ikat" is from Malay originated 2. Introduction ofother methods besides tying toboostthe

language "mangikat" meaning ”to tie”. thus itisrootedfrom production and time efficiency. Inthiscat巴gory, many new

a process or action. On the otherhand.theJapanese word methods were utilizedincludingstenciling. stamping, carved

"kasun

has itsdirect translation of being smeared or blurred. surface pr巴ssingand th巴y had been alreadyestablishedas

I myselfintroducemy textlie work to the westerners asikat thedyeingtechniqu巴s Use ofrough weaving asresist isalso textile due toEnglish’s much wideruse in the world. But itis d巴velopedtocreatevery finepatt巴rns

clearly differentthattheikat isaboutth巴 technique (process) 3. Mechanization of tyingthreads to ease the intensivelabor

and kasuri isabout the visualeffect (result). ofhand tying

Ikat: My workofikat/ kasuri textileshasbeen focused on !me, Itusually applies tying the th1eadsof warp or weft. orboth pattern. and lately on color. and I have b巴ens巴arching and warp and weftwith another threadlike material to prevent sometimes come up withth巴 originalmethods toaccomplish thedyeliquidto seepinthethread'sfib巴rinthe dye bath in my images onthewoven textiles. Som巴 people called my order tocreatethepatternsonth巴 thr巴ads. Som巴 ar巴as in workvery graphicaland indeed my work is about weaving

Asia use Literubbingmethodwhich the dye liquidI paste theimages withikat techniques.In 2006.I had an opportunity

isdirectlyrubbed into thethreads. I n 巴ither way. th巴 tied tocreatesmallformat weavings and took advantage to step section will not be dyed th巴refor ti巴 worksasresistin dyeing. out from my routineapproachand rath巴rfocus on the nature

There are many countries and regions well known toproduce of materialsand hand manipulation.Iftyingis aboutcr巴ating

1kat textliesasthe traditional art.includingIndia. Indonesia, thepattern,can tyingitselfbe the patternsnot asth巴 resistin

Thailand. Myanmar. Butan. Taiwan. Uzbekistan.aswell as dyeing? So I chosethe metallicwires ofseveralkindfortying.

Guatemala. Mexico. and Peru. Reeledsill王 ofsoftplywas dy巴dby natu1 al materials andthen tied withth巴 metallicwiresusingthe seed-threadmethod.As Kasun the wefton theloom it was twisted by hand inorder tocreate

Itmeans the ikattextilesofJapan ingeneral.Because the th巴 patterns by wiresaswellasthe textures from sill王 bemg

visually recognized e汀ects(= patterns ) have been the focal over-twister!.under-twisted.or rev巴rse-twisted. Here I have

pointsinc巴 ikat textileswere imported and introducedto gained the new element ofexpression "texture

I cr 巴ated by Japan. the Japanese word meaning smeared or blurred was hand manipulationandselectionoftyingmaterials

usedtoref巴r theikat textiles.Yet tillthe end of Edo era.

tying method hasbeen utilizedjust asikat textiles ofother Work note:

countries. Itwas late Edo toMeiji 巴Ia when th巴 social The naturaldye materials of grape leav巴 s. jashir. gandal

environment started to allow the gen 巴 ral publicofJapan madd巳rrootswer巴 givento me byth巴 generosityofOkayama

produceand wear thetextiles withsome patt巴rnsthat many Oriental Muse um and I us巴dfor the work. mangikat #3-#6

inspirationsand interpretations took parts in making ofkasuri They were originally brought by the Miri studioinIranto

textiles asth巴 massproduction. Such trendscanb巴 classified Japan inApr 2il005for theirtextile exhibit tointroduc巴 their

inthree categori巴s methods based on and improved from Iraniannaturaldye

tradition

"NAMBA Kumiko 造形デザイン学科

78

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