FOOD AND FARMING IN AKIYAMA

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Kobe Shoin Women’s University Repository

Title

FOOD AND FARMING IN AKIYAMA

Author(s)

Richard A.

Jambor

Citation

Shoin Literary Review，No.21：23-38

Issue Date

1987

Resource Type

Bulletin Paper / 紀要論文

Resource Version

URL

Right

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FOOD

AND

FARMING

IN AKIYAMA

Richard A.Jambor

Akiyamaisthenamegiventothedistrictlyingontheborderbetween NaganoandNiigataPrefectureswhichencompassesthenarrowgorge cutbytheNakatsuRiverandisreputedtobeinhabitedbythedescen-dantsofthedefeatedHeikeClan.Aftertravelingherein1828atthe requestofJipPenshaIkku,SuzukiBokushi鈴木牧之wroteanaccount ofhistrip,whichheentitled,AkiyamaKiko秋山記行(AnAccountOf ajourneytoAkiyama).Thisjourneyalsobecamethebasisofhis descriptionofthevalley,itsinhabitants,andtheircustomsthatappear inachapterofHokuetsuSeppu北越雪譜(SnowCountryTales), Bokushi'sbestknownwork。{1) WhilereadingAkiyamaKiko,Iwaspuzzledbytherelativelylarge amountofspaceBokushiallottedtothedescriptionofhowfarming wascarriedoutinthevalleyandoftheeatinghabitsofthoseliving there.Inhispreface,forexample,Bokushiwritesabouttheinhabitants ofAkiyamaasbeing"contenttofarmfortheirdailyfareofmillet,fox -tailmilletandseveralkindsofhorsechestnuts栃の実 ."(2)Ateach placewhereBokushiandhisguideOkeyastoptoeat,thereaderis givenadetaileddescriptionofthemealsthatalmostamountstoa

(1)SuzukiBokushi鈴木牧之Aka'yamaKiko秋山記行(AnAccountofa/gurney

toAkiyanaa),(Nagano:ShinanoKyoiku,1937).Seealsomy"Bokushiand theHuntersofAkita",inShoinLiteraryReview,Na.19,pp.15-38.(All translationsinthisarticlearemine.)

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menu.Atfirst,thesedescriptionsgavemeasenseofdejdvu,forIfelt thatBokushiwassimplydisplayingthatkeeninterestinfoodwhichis evennowsonoticeableinthecurrent"gourmetboom"inJapan.AsI regardthelatterascommercialhucksterismmixedwithfrivolity,I tendedtolookdownmynoseatBokushiforhisinterestinsuch matters.Still,IcouldnothelpbutwonderwhyBokushi,theverysoul ofplainliving,shouldhavetreatedthematsuchgreatlength. NotuntilIcameacrossKinoMi木の実(Nub)byMatsuyama Toshio,however,wasIabletounderstandwhyBokushihadgoneto suchtroubledescribingthesematters、〔3)Inthisbook,Professor MatsuyamashowshowthemountainousterrainofJapanhasledthose livingtheretodevelopquiteadifferentfoodpatternfromthatofthe predominantlyrice-growingregionsofthecountry.Foronething,the verylayofthelandinthemountainsprovedamightyobstacletothe constructionofthepaddiesthataresoessentialtoricegrowing.Even thecasualvisitortothemountainousvalleysinJapancannothelpbut noticethesteepmountainsidesinthenarrowvalleys.Moreover,the coldweatherofthemountaindistrictsalsomadeitdifficulttocultivate riceuntiltherecentdevelopmentofstrainscapableofbeinggrownat rowtemperatures.Thus,evidencetakenfromthedietaryhabitsof Japanesemountainvillagesshowsthattheinhabitantsdidnotswitchto riceastheirmaincerealuntilafterWorldWarII.Throughouthis book,ProfessorMatsuyamausesmanyexamplestoshowhowthose livinginisolatedvillagesadaptedtotheircircumstances.Healso investigatestheconnectionbetweenJapanesecultureandthecultiva-tionofrice;thatis,ifricegrowingandthesocietythatdevelopedas

(3)MatsuyamaToshio松山利夫,Kino〃ゴ木の実(Nuts),(Tokyo:Hosei

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aresultmaybesaidtobelargelyresponsibleformanycharacteristics ofJapaneseculture,howdoesoneexplainthelongperiodsofJapanese prehistorybeforetheintroductionofriceandtheculturethatdeveloped inthemountainareasthat,untilrecently,reliedongrainsotherthan rice?Infact,oneofthemainpointsthatProfessorMatsuyamabrings outinhisworkisthatthosefromtherice-growingareas,thedominant groupinJapanesehistoryandsociety,havetendedtolabelthe mountaineersandtheirfoodsas"backward."〔4)Thus,itisnotsurpris・ ingthat,asBokushicamefromarice-growingdistrict,healsowasso surprisedbywhathesawinAkiyamathathemadenoteofitinhis descriptions.WithBokushi'sdescriptionsasconcreteevidence,wecan useAkiyamaasamodelwhichdemonstratesProfessorMatsuyama's ideasonhowfarmingandnourishmentinthemountainsdifferedfrom thatcustomarilyassociatedwithJapan.Inshort,theremarkmadeby theoldmaninthevillageofOakazawatoBokushiseemstobearout ProfessorMatsuyama'sthesis:"Longago,outsidersrarelycamehere ,,.thefoodwasdifferentfromwhattheywereaccustomedto."㈲ Ofcourse,itishopedthatthereaderwillbearinmindthatwhatis saidaboutfoodandfarminginthemountainvalleyofAkiyamawill differtosomeextentfromthatofothermountainregionsofJapan.〔6》 Nevertheless,nomattertheregion,themountaineersofJapanhave madewiseuseoftheirenvironmenttoprovidefortheirfoodneeds.To bemorespecific,onemightsummarizetheagriculturalpracticeson whichAkiyamaand,byextension,othermountaindistrictswere similarasfollows:(1)therelianceonburnt-fieldagricultureinstead (4)Matsuyama,pp.1-4. `5)Suzuki,p.29, {6)Matsuyama,pp.40-54,foradescriptionoftheforestzonesofJapanandthe vegetationfoundtherein,

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ofwet-fieldpaddiestogrowtheirgrains;{2)thecultivationofgrains otherthanrice;(3)theuseofthevegetationandfruitsofthe surroundingforestasasupplement,ifnotabasiccomponent,oftheir diet.BydrawingfreelyonthosedescriptionsthatBokushihasLeftus inAkiyamaKiko,Ihopetodemonstratehowthefarminganddietof Akiyamademonstratetheabovecharacteristics. First,letuslookmorecloselyatthevalleyofAkiyama.Thedistrict ismadeupoffourteensmallandfairlyisolatedvillagesthatlinethe narrowgorgecutbytheNakatsuRiverasitflowsfromsouthtonorth tojointheShinanoRiver.Onbothsidesoftheriver,thethickly forestedhillsidesrisesteeplytoheightsofsevenhundredmetersor more.Inaddition,theareabelongstothe"snowcountry"immortalized byKawanariYasubata'snovelofthesamename,thatregionofcentral Japannotedforthephenomenallyheavysnowsthatblanketthearea, isolatingit,untilquiterecently,fromtheendofNovembertoApril _. Althoughthelandscapeisstunninglybeautiful,itcertainlydoesnot provideafavorablesiteforagriculture." AsBokushienteredthevalley,oneofthefirstthingsthatcaughthis attentionwastheappearanceofthefieldsundercultivation.Leaving MidamaVillage.forexample,henoticedtheplaceswherethetreeshad beenburnedoffthemountainsidesandcropsplantedintheirplace. Hereishisdescriptionofwhathesawjustbeforearrivinginthevillage ofNakanoTaira "Thetreesonthemountainsidehadb eenburnedaway,butthelarge treesinthesefieldshadnotnotyetdecayedandfallen.Thoselarge treeswhichhadalreadydonesolayinthefields,strippedoftheir

(7)IchikawaTakeo市川健夫,HeikenoTani平家の谷(TheValleyoftheHeike) _.

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bark.NeitherthesetreesnorthestonesIspokeofseemedtogetin .thewayoffarming."〔8) Thisdescriptionshowswhatthefieldslookedlikeasaresultofburnt -fieldagriculture(yakihata焼畑orkannoカンノ) ,aformofcut-and-slashagriculturethatisstillusedinmanypartsoftheworldandwhich waswidelyusedthroughoutthemountainouspartsof3apan(andas lateas1960inAkiyama),(9)Asmentionedpreviously,theterraininthe mountainvalleysofJapanissuchthattheinhabitantswereforcedto farmasbesttheycouldonthesteepmountainsides.Tomakelevel fieldssuitableforricefarmingwasbeyondthemeansofthoselivingin AkiyamaattimeofBokushi'sjourney.Sucheffortswouldhave requiredasubstantialpecuniaryinvestmenttosucceed,nottomention thelargeinvestmentinhumanlabor.AtthetimeofBokushi'svisitto Akiyama,bothinvestmentswerebeyondthepowerofthevillagers.(10〕 WhenBokushiaskedanelderhowtheinhabitantsofKoakazawa Villagepreparedthewoodedhillsidesforplanting,hereceivedthe followinganswer "Thelargetreesyoumentionedgraduallyfalldownandrot ,andare thrownawaylater.Itwouldtakealotofworktocutdownandsplit theselargetrees.Moreover,wecutdownonlythesmalltreesthat arenearbyandcutthemintolengthsofeightornineshaku尺,〔11) splittingthemintotwo,three,orfoursmallpieces,andalsocutting (8)Suzuki,p.23.

(9)IchikawaTakeo市川健夫andSaitoIsao斉藤功,SaikoNihonnoShinrin

β〃η勧再考日本の森林文イヒ(A・ReconsiderationoftheSylvanCultus-eof

Japan).(Tokyo:NihonHosoShuppan,1985),pp.48-49andMaseYoshio,

ed.,馬瀬良雄AkiyamagonoKotobafoKuyashi秋山郷のことばと暮ら

し(Lan- guageandLifeinAkiyama),{Tokyo:DaiIchihoki,1982),p.10,andIchik-awa,pp.49-52.

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thebranchesintolengthssuitableforfirewood.Andinordertoturn theforestsintofarmland,wegraduallyclearawaythesmalltreesthe yearbeforewhenwehavethetime.Ifwestripawaythebarkonthe treeswhicharetoobigforouraxes,theywilljustwitheraway.We alsocutslashtherootsofthetreeswithouraxes.Andthenafterthe snowdisappearsattheendofthethirdmonthinthefollowingyear andtheweatherturnsfine,westartafirefromthewindwardside. Whenthebranchesofthesmalltreesthathadbeencutdowntheyear beforebegintoburn,thereisaroaringfireeverywherewhichreaches ashighasthebranchesofthelargetreesanddiesoutwhenitgetsto thefieldsoflargegreentrees."(12) Itisinstructivetocomparetheabovedescriptionwiththeonelater giventoBokushiinKamikettoVillage,whichliesonthewestbankof theriver,toseehowsimilarlythevillagerstherewentaboutfarming. "Whenwedecidetobeginworkonanewfield ,wedoitexactlythe sameway,whetherweareeastorwestoftheriver.Ifthereisafield oflarge,thicktrees,westripthebarkoffthesebigtreestheyear beforeandletthemwitheraway.Inthefourthorfifthmonthsofthe followingyear,wecutdownthesaplingsandweedsandsetfireto themthirtydayslaterwhentheweatherisgood.Theonlythingsleft arethelargewitheredtreesandsomevarious-sizedstoneshereand there.Weusetheashesfromthesetreesandweedsforfertilizer. Thisyear,weplantbuckwheat,thefollowingyearmillet,andinthe yearafterthatfox-tailmillet,andwewillgrowtheseaboutthree times.Abouttheeighthyearthesoilbecomesexhaustedandwillno longergrowanything,andsoweletitgrowoverbecausereedswill naturallycoverthewholesurface.Asyouhaveseenduringyourtrip, (12)Suzuki,p.44.

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largetreeswithoutbranchesorleavesareleftstandinginthefields ofreeds.Eventhevillagesthathavelotsofreedslikethisonemake nouseofthemandleavethemaloneinthefieldsforaboutthirty years,andthentheysetfiretothereedsandstartfarmingonce again.ThedifferencebetweentheeastbankoftheriverinAkiyama andthewestsideoftheriveristhat,althoughthevillages(onthe eastbank)areheavilyforestedandnotoftenvisitedbyoutsiders,the soiloverthereisfertileandcangrowcropscontinouslyforsixteen orseventeen,evenuptilltwentyyears."cla) ThecropsplantedinKoakazawaweresimilartothoseplantedin Kamiketto. "Thefirstyear ,wesowfox-tailmillet(hie稗),andtheyearafter that,millet(awa粟),andthefollowingyear,beans,andinthe followingyears,wesowmilletandbuckwheat(soba蕎麦).Again, thesoilproducessoybeansormilletforperiodoftenyears.Ifthe soilisfertile,wecanplantcropsinwetplacesforfifteentoseventeen years.Afterthat,thesoilbecomesweak,andsoweletitliefallow, anditbecomesafieldofreeds."(14) Actually,theseburningsofthefieldswerealsocarriedoutby mountainvillagesduringthespringandsummer,thoughBokushidoes notmentionthesummerburnings.Forexample,thevillagerson Hakusan白山cutthetreesdowninthepreviousfall,burnttheunder-brushafterthespringthaw,andthensowedthefollowingcropsineach succeedingyear:fox-tailmilletandmillet,redbeans,oilplants,after whichthefieldswereabandoned.Duringthesummerburningsthe villagersburnttheundergrowthoftheabandonedfieldswheretrees (13)Suzuki,p.93. (14}Suzupi,p.44.

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hadnotyetgrownduringthehottestdaysofthesummer _,afterwhich theyplantedbuckwheatorradishesthefirstyear,andredbeansinthe thirdyeartosupplementtheharvestfromthespringfields _.(15) InBokushi'sdescriptionofagricultureinAkiyama,riceisconspicu-ousbyitsabsence.Infact,ataxsurveymadein1683madenomention ofricefields.Onesuchfielddidappearinthesurveythatwascarried outin1714,butnotenoughricewasgrowntobetaxed.Anothersurvey madein175651eviedataxonthericegrownthere.(16)Intheconclusion tohisbook,BokushinotesthatricewasonlyeatenonNewYear'sEve andmixedwithhorsechestnutstomakedumplings.Whenhealsotells usthathistriptoAkiyamamadehimrealizethesuperiorityofriceto alltheothergrains,hemakesthereaderwonderifthiswasnotdueto thescarcityofriceinthevillageshevisitedduringhistrip _.(i7) LetusreturnonceagaintoBokushiandlistenwithhimastheelderly mandescribeswhatthevillagersofKoakazawaeat. "Duringtheyear ,milletandfox-tailmilletmixedinwithafewred beansaredelicious,andwehaveroastedmilletcakes(栃もち)inthe morning.Aswehavebecomevainlikeeverybodyelselately,wealso addsomebeanjamtothemillet.Thosewhoarenotwelloffmixfox -tailmilletwiththeirmilletandmakeroastedmilletcakes .Ifyou gofromheretothevillagesofUenoHaraandWayamaaboveus, youwillfindthattheyliveonchestnutsandalsogroundoakacorns allyearlong.Inthespringandautumnwechopuptheleavesand rootsofturnipsforoursoup,andmixthemwithalittlemillet _,and iftherearethreeorfourpeopleinahousehold,weslicetheturnips Ihavespokenofintolargepieces,andwhenthesoupisboiling _,we (15)Matsuyama,pp.248-249. (16)Masae,p.52. (17)Suzuki,p.104.

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putinoneortwogo合{18)ofmilletflour,stirandmakeamealoutof that.Ourvillagehasthebestfoodbecauseweareinthecenter.On thoseinfrequentoccasionswhenmerchantsandothersspendthe nightwithus,weeatmilletofonecolor,"(19) Aslateas1905,avisitortoAkiyamadescribedtheordinaryfood eateninAkiyamaasconsistingofroasteddumplingsmadefrommillet, fox-tailmillet,andbuckwheat,togetherwithvegetablespickledinsalt. Milletwasservedagainatsupper.Sincemilletandfox-tailmillethave amuchgreaterresistancethanricetothecoldtemperaturesofthe mountains,theywerethecerealsgrownthere.Eatingricemixedwith variousgrainswasconsideredadelicacy.`20} AtShimizugaharaVillageBokushitriedsomeofthecakesmade frommilletandbeancurdwithoutknowingwhattheyhadbeenmade from.Hereishisdescriptionoftheexperience. "Whenitcomestochewing ,Ican'tbesaidtohaveanyteeth,butI waslookingforwardtohavingsomethingthatlookedlikericegruel andwasservedinaredrimlessbowlsetonalargewhitechestnut tray,whichweateonalargewhitechestnutkneeler.Asforthe vegetablesservedthere,Itastedsomethinlyslicedradishesand eggplantsinmysoupbowl.WhenIwaseatingtheboiledbean-curd soup,Icameacrosssomethinghardandgrayatthebottom,shaped likesmallcoins,sixorsevenbu分tzi>thicklikethepowderintherice cakeswhereIcomefrom.Thesemusthavebeenthemilletcakesof Akiyama.Itookamouthfulbutcouldn'tswallowanything.The household,theirmouthsfull,gavemesomestrangelooks.Iguessed (18)Onego一合equals.180faliteror.3840fapint. (19)Suzuki,pp.36-37. (20)Masae,p.128. (21)Onebu分equals3.03millimetersorl2inches.

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thatitwasmilletcakewiththebranstillnotremoved. "Whilepassingthetimethenextmorning ,Isaidthatthepiecesof milletcakeappearedtohavebeenintendedasatreatforus.Okeya answeredthatithadindeedbeenthefamedbean-curdpasteof Akiyama.Thesoybeansaresoakedandthehullsremovedinthe stonemillasisdoneoutside,butinsteadoffilteringitorremoving thebran,theykneaditjustthewayitisandputitintoboilingwater. TheycalIthis`powderedbeancurd.'"(zz》 Bokushi'sunfamiliaritywiththefoodeatenbythoseinthemountains ledtoahumorousincidentandarareoutburstfromOkeya,hisguide, who,untilthen,hadpatientlyansweredthequestions,carriedthe baggage,andputupwiththefearsofBokushi.InKamikettoVillage Bokushiwasunabletosleepbecausehehadbeenbotheredbyfleasand anoisethatsoundedasifsomethingwasbeingground.Whenhewent toeathisbreakfastthenextmorning,hesawonhisbreakfasttray "thatIhadbeenservedabowlofthreemilletcakesaboutonesun 寸(23)thick,cutintheshapeofricetubs.Theyweresoverybigthat thethirdanestuckoutabovetheedgeofthebawlandresembledrice cakescookedinsoup,whilethebeancurdsoup,whichhadtwolarge uncuttarorootsrightinthecenter,lookedlikeasidedishof vegetables.WhenIfinallyfinishedone(cake),Ihadnomoresoup. IampartialtobeancurdsoupandwhenIaskedforanotherhelping, theytriedtheirbesttogivemealotofthosetarorootsinthesoup, andafterIfinallyhadeatentwoofthem,IgotOkeyatohelpwiththe remainingone.Myhostswereurgingmetotakesomemore,but whilethemilletitselfmightbesaidtotastegood,Ididn'tlikethe (22)Suzuki,p.35. (23)Onesun￣寸equals3.03centimetersorL2inches.

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soupthebuckwheatnooddleswerein,andIdidnottakeany. "Whenatlengthitwastimetotalk ,Okeyatoldmethat,astheyhad notservedaverygoodmealthenightbefore,whentheyhadspoken ofonlyservingbuckwheatforbreakfast,hehadtoldthemthatI didn'tlikebuckwheat.AsIhadexpressedmyselfpoorlywhenIhad askedformilletcakesbytellingthemthattheyweremyfavorite food,theyhadstayedupallnightsteamingthemilletandpounding itintocakes,andsoheaskedmetotryatLeastoneofthem.Iwas unabletoresistthisextremelydeterminedoutburst." {AndBokushiwrotethispoemasamementoofhisexperience.) "Iatetwoofthemilletcakespiledhighinmydish , ButIlefttheremainingoneinAkiyama,"(2a) Anothercharacteristicofthedietinthemountainvillagesof Akiyamawastheirrelianceontheforestsaroundthemtoprovide additionalsourcesoffood.AtUenoHaraVillage,Bokushitellsusthat "aman ,whoseemedtobeabouttwentyyearsold,cameinwithasickle hangingf「omhiswaist,afte「havingPutsomechestnuts(栃の実)before thegate."(25)ProfessorMatsuyamashowshowthisrelianceonnuts wasfoundintheearliestperiodsofJapanesehistoryandthat,untiljust beforeWorldWarII,manyofthoselivinginthemountainsalso dependedonthesenutsasprimarysourcesoffood.Inthisconnection, itisinterestingtonotethatwhenAsakawaKenichivisitedAkiyama aftertheSecondWorldWartogatherthelegendsandrecordthe customsofthepastwhichhefearedwouldsoondisappear,hewastold byanelderlyinhabitantthat,"Yousee,whenIwasyoung,weusedto eathorsechestnuts...theywereourmainfoodbecausewedidn'thave (24)Suzuki,p.96. (25)Suzuki,p.56.

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anythingelse.Weremovedtheirshells,tookoutthebitterness,andate themasroastedcakeswithsomegreensontheside."〔26)Thesenuts _. formedpartofthevillager'sdailymenuand,duringthewintermonths, providedthestarchtheyneededtosupplementthemillettheyhad harvestedearlier.(27) Asinothermountainvillages,theharvestingorgatheringofthenuts wasacommunalactivity.Thenutscouldnotbegatheredbyanyoneat anytime.Instead,certainvillagers,chosenfortheirexperienceinthis matter,determinedwhenthenutswouldbereadyforgathering _,andset asideacertaindaytodothis.Cuttingdownthechestnuttreeswas strictlyforbidden.LetusreturnonceagaintoBokushiashelistensto theelderatKoakazawaVillage. "Thisvalleyhasag reatmanychestnuttrees,manyofthemlargeand thick.Intheeighthmonthwegatherthosechestnutsthathavefallen ...Allthechildrenwhocanwalkwillbeautgatheringchestnuts untilnextmonth.Weeatchestnutsfromthetenthmonthuntilspring ...IfyougotothevillagesofUenoHaraandWayamathatcome afterthisone(Koakazawa),youwillfindthattheyusuallyeat chestnutsandacornstheyeararound."(28) Oncetheyhadcollectedthehorsechestnuts,thevillagershadalong taskbeforethembeforetheywouldbeabletoeatthem.Theelderly maninKoakaaawaVillageexplainedtheprocesstoBokushiasfol-lows "Weremovetheshellsj ustthesameaswedowithwalnutsandboil them.Wekneadthemintoaflourwhichwepourontoaroughsieve.

(26)AsakawaKinichi浅川欽一,AkiyamaMonogatari秋山物語(TheStoryof

Akiydma),(Nagano:StudioUnique,1977),p .193.

(27)Matsuyama,pp.146-149,and157. (28)Suzuki,p.37.

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Togetridofthebitterflavor,weplaceabagonabamboobasket, puttheflourinit,andpourwaterevenlyoverit.Wedothiscarefully・-soastokeeptheflourfromscattering,andthewaterslowlyoozes throughandseepstothebottombyitself,takingaboutfourdaysto doso.Wecollectitandputitintoacottonbagwhichwewringout. Whenthisisdone,allthewaterflowsout,leavingtheflourinthebag. Thiswhitestuffisjustasbrightassnow,andweserveitonour platesandeatitjustasitis."{29) Torecapitulate,thisprocessinvolvedseveralsteps,thefirstofwhich wasthekillingofwhateverinsectswereinthenutsbysoakingthemin water,afterwhichthenutswereplacedonagrassmatinasunnyspot todry.Next,thenutswereputinabasketwhichwashungfromthe ceilingoroverthefireplace.Usingthetraditionalhearth(iron),the villagershungthechestnutsfromalargefirescreenoverthehearth. Thesmokefromthehearthkilledanyremaininginsects,aswellas dryingandpreservingthenuts.Thecoveringofthenutswasremoved bythewomenwhousedtheirteethorakindofpliers(moshireモシレ),(3°, Thenextstepinvolvedremovingthetannicandsaboninacids containedinhorsechestnutsandacorns.Theseacidsgivethenutsa bittertasteandarepoisonous.Thenutsmustfirstbesoakedinrunning waterorinabarrelofwater.Afterthreedays,ashesareaddedtothe water.Thechestnutsarethensoakedforaperiodoffromseventoten daysafterwhichtheashesareremoved,andthechestnutsheatedfor thirtyminutesinwateruntiltheybecomesoftandsticky.Whenthis waterispouredout,itisredduetothetannicacidtakenfromthenuts. (29)Suzuki,pp.37-38. (30)Masae,pp.125-127.

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Thewateristhenchangedthreeorfourtimes,untilthechestnuts finallydissolvesintoapowderwhichsettlesonthebottomofthe container.Suchisasummarytakenfromamodernexpianationofthis process.AlthoughBokushimakesnomentionoftheacid,hisdescrip-tionisalmostidenticalwiththismoremodernone.(31) Onewayinwhichthevillagersatethechestnutswasascakesor mochi(もち);hereisBokushi'selderagain. "Weremovetheshellsand ,afterhavingplacedthenutsinasmall streamforseveraldays,bringtheminsideandcoverthemwithashes forthreedays,heatthem,andcoverthemwithashesoncemore. Next,weputthemintoabamboobasketandrinseouttheashes,and thenweheatthemagainandpoundthemintocakes.Whenthecakes areready,theyarealightgraycolorandifwemixthemwithmillet andfox-tailmillet,theybecomehard."cszl Theforestsalsoprovidedthevillagerswithnumerouskindsof mushrooms.AsBokushiwaswalkingtoYumotowithOkeya,the lattersuddenlywentaheadofhim,andbeforeBokushicaughtupwith him,Okeyahadstuffedhishatwithvariouskindsofmushrooms,filling notonlyhissleevesandthebagofhissleeveswiththem,butalso collectingthemintheclothwrapperhehadwithhim,andhetold BokushithattheywouldeatthemwhentheystoppedatYumoto. Bokushiregrettedthat,"lfonlywehadbeentwentydayssoonertopick thedifferentvarietiesofmushrooms,Ifeltsurethatwewouldhave foundsomeshiitakeamongthem."Laterthatnight,Okeyacookedthe mushroomsforBokushi,whobecameverythirstyaftereatingso many.(33) (31)Matsuyama.pp.165-1fi8. (32)Suzuki,p.38. (33)Suzuki,p.63.

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Conclusion FollowingtheleadofProfessorMatsuyama,thisshortarticlehas usedexcerptsfromSuzukiBokushi'sAkiyamaKikototrytodemon- stratecertaincharacteristicsoftheagricuitureandfoodofthemoun-tainvillagesofJapan.Ithasalsotriedtoshowthat,farfrombeing inferiortothatoftherice-growingregions,thefoodofthemountains wasanappropriateresponsetotheharshconditionsthatthemountain-eersfaced. Thatthedietenjoyedbythevillagers(ifnotbyBokushi)wasa nutritiousonewasattestedtobynoneotherthanBokushihimselfwho wassurprisedtofindnumerousoctogenarianslivinginAkiyama,none theworseforwearforwhattheyateandtheirdailylaborsinthe mountainfields.Still,itwouldbewrongtothinkthatBokushionly describedsomekindofutopia(桃源郷),securefromtheworriesof thelowlands,nor,forthatmatter,thatthepresentwriterwantsto harkenbacknostalgicallytothe"goodolddays,"that,inreality,never existed. Fortherewasadarksidetothepicture.WhenBokushistopped forteainAmazakeVillage,hehadthefollowingdialoguewitha housewife. "Now ,astherewereonlytwohouseshere,whenIremarkedhow lonelyitmustbewhenthesnowscome,thewomananswered,`Noone comesfromtheoutsidewhenitsnows.ButhuntersfromAkita sometimesvisitus.Ourvillagehasstayedthesamesizeforalong time.TherewereeightfamiliesinOakiyama,whichwasthefound-ingsettlementforallAkiyamaonthewestsideoftheriver,butforty -sixyearsagotheystarvedtodeathduringthefamineintheyearof theRabbitandnotasinglefamilyescaped.Ourvillagehadtwo housesthen.Somehowwegotthroughthetroublesoftheyearofthe

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Rabbitandareallrightnowandhaveenoughtoeat' _{,shesaid,"(34)} Onlytenyearslater,AmazakeVillagewouldalsodisappearduringa famine.(35) Therewouldalsobeotherchangesdueto"progress,"aswell _.Sadly enough,ProfessorMatsuyamatellsushow,incertainmountainvil-lager,thegreatdemandforcharcoalattheendoftheSecondWorld Warledtothecuttingdownofthevillagechestnuttreestomake charcoal.Moreover,thegivingoverofthemountainsidestothecedar andcypresstreesgrownforlumberinmanypartsofJapannotonly hastenedtheendoftheeatinghabitsofcenturiesbutalsobroughtabout thedepopulationofthecountryside,nottomentionotherecological problems.㈹ Butthepictureisnotanentirelygloomyone.Arecentvisitto Akiyamataughtmethat,nowadays,dietaryhabitshavegreatly changedfromthetimeofBokushi'svisit.Now,thankstohardystrains ofrice,thevillagersnolongerrelyonmilletastheirbasiccerealand eatriceateverymeal.Burntfieldagricultureisnolongercarriedon, exceptonceayearasademonstrationofpastways.ThoseIspoke withassuredmethat,atpresent,theyareself-sufficientinfood,being abletosupplytheirdietaryneedswiththefishtakenfromthestreams aroundthemandthegamehuntedduringthewintermonths,aswellas thevariousplants,mushrooms,gatheredfromthemountainsides.They alsofeltthatlifehadgreatlychanged...forthebetter.(37} (34)Suzuki,p.31. (35)Asakawa,pp.1$1-190. (36)Matsuyama,pp.34-35.

(37)SeeYamadaKametaro山田亀太郎andYamadaHarue山田ハルエ,]晦㎜to

RyoshitoYakihatanoTani山と猟自而と焼畑の谷(APalleyofBurntFields

andHuntersandMountains),(Tokyo:HakajitsuSha,1983),anoralrecord