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MiyakoHoliday‑explorationsofmeaning
Contents:
TeruyukiHiga
ProfessorofEconomics withassistancefrom
KarenLupardus
ProfessorofEnglish OkinawalnternationalUniversityJuniorCollege
PARTI｡Introduction‑aninvitationtoresearchinShimoji‑cho PARTⅡ、MiyakoHoliday‑asubjectiveaccount
l・Packagingatour
2.Thetransitorypleasuresoftransit
3.Heavenisforthehumble‑buttheydon'tgetaroomwithaview 4.Thesportinglifeoftheleisureclass
5.Theothersideofthefence‑wherethegrassgrowsgreener 6.Foodforthought
7.Morethoughtsonfood 8.Theappealoftheunfamiliar
9.Darkness‑themoodofthestorm
lO・Departure‑areturntodarkness PARTm.Conclusion‑anobjectiveaccount
l．"OneGloriousMoment''‑theeconomicreality
2．"OneGloriousMoment''‑thepriceofbeingyoung,atthecostof
difference
3."OneGloriousMoment"‑preferentialcustomers 4."OneGloriousMoment"一waterunderthebridge
PARTI､Introduction‑aninvitationtoresearchinShimoji‑cho
Initspursuitofthegoalofself‑sufficiency,OkinawaPrefecturehas,eversinceitsrever‑
siontoJapaninl972,beenheavilydependentuponfinancialassistancefromthefederalgov‑
ernment・Increasinglyinrecentyears,initsdesireforself‑sufficiencyandautonomy,Okinawa hasreliedontourismasapathtowardstheachievementofitsgoals・Thequestionremains whetherindeedthisisanappropriateandviableapproach,orwhethertourismitselfis actuallyadifferentformofdependency.WiththerecentDietapprovalofthe"ResortDevelop‑
mentAct"inl987,andtheconsequentheavyfederalsubsidyandsupportofresortdevelop‑
ment,andhencetourism,thisquestionrapidlyhasbecomemorethananacademicissue.
Duringthepastcoupleofyears,Ihaveconsideredthisareafromanacademicpointof view,asthatofascholarofeconomics,andhavepublishedandpresentedanumberofpapers
onaspectsofresortdevelopmentinJapanandinOkinawa.'Myconclusioninthosepapers
wasthatthelong‑rangeeconomicbenefitsforlocalitiessuchasOkinawaarequestionable.
However,economicmattersarenottheonlyonesofimportance,astherearealsoissuesofa personal,humannaturewhichoughttobegivenconsideration.
Inthatregard,Ishouldexplainthatrecently,inMayl991,Ihadtheopportunitytovisit Hawaiiundercircumstanceswhichallowedmetoexperiencethetripinamannernotunlike thatofatourist.ImentionthatbecauselhadlivedinHawaiiabouttwentyyearsagoasa student,passedthroughbrieflythreeyearsago,andthenreturnedagaininJanuaryofthis year,butunderpressureofmakingapresentationbeforeaninternationalaudience.Thisre‑
centtripinlateMayandearlyJune,madefourmonthsago,entailednosuchobligationofper‑
sonalandprofessionalpresentation,butratherlwassentsimplytoobserveproceedingsatan internationalconference.Havingthepreviousyearbeenengagedinresortdevelopmentstud‑
ies,Iwasofcoursemoresensitivetoconditionsthanlmightpreviouslyhavebeen.Unfortu‑
nately,Ididnothavetheforesighttotakeadvantageofthatopportunity.However,uponre‑
turningtoOkinawa,Irealizedhowmuchlhadbeenaffectedbytheopportunitytovisit Hawaiiessentiallyasa"tourist"ratherthanasastudentorasanacademicianmakingan academicpresentationbeforeanaudienceofprofessionalpeers.Therefore,whentheoppor‑
tunityaroseformetomakeasimilartriptoMiyako,Idecidedtoexploreresortdevelopment fromthepointofviewofaSensitizedtourist､2
Iusetheexpression@0sensitized"becauselwanttoemphasizethatanextendedandinten‑
sivestudyofafield,suchasresortdevelopment(oranyotherfield),makesapersonmore sensitivetothesignificanceoffactorswhichmighteasilybeoverlookedorneglectedbythe casualobserver.Butldonotwanttolimittheimplicationof､@sensitivity''simplytothatof
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academicawareness;rather,Iwanttoincludethesensitivityofonewhorecognizeshisown membershipinaclassofpeoplewhohavetraditionally,formorethanacentury,feltthem‑
selvestobeeconomically,culturally,andeducationallydisadvantanged.Thatis,asanOkina‑
wan,Imustacknowledgethehistoricaleffectofgenerationsofsubordinationandoccupation byoUtsiders,boththosewithwhomweOkinawansfeelgenetic,linguistic,andculturalties andthosewithwhomwefeelspiritualties.Itisthisawareness,too,thatlincludeintheex‑
pression"sensitized".
Therefore,asa@@sensitized"touristfromOkinawa,visitingforthefirsttimewhatwasfor meaforeignpartofOkinawa,Iattemptedtoexploreboththeislandanditsresortdevelop‑
mentfacilities,andmyself,aslrespondedtoboth.Thispaperthenservesasadocumentary ofthatSeptemberexploration.3
PARTH.Miyakoholiday‑asubjectiveaccount
1.Packagingatour
Beinganoviceintheareaofpleasuretraveling,andfeelingmyselfveryyounginthatre‑
gard,ifnotinage,Iassumedthatobtainingapackagetourwasthemosteconomical,conven‑
ient,anddesirableapproachtomakingathreeorfour‑daytrip,whethertoanislandinOki‑
nawaPrefectureoranywhereelse.Ialsobelievedthatitwouldbetheeasiest.Muchtomy surprise,however,thatwasnotthecase,thoughhadlnotmadefurtherinquiry,propelledby myacademicupbringingaslwas,Imightnothavebeenawareofthedegreeofdifference.
Tophrasethematterinacademicterms,Icouldsay,inLatin,caveatemptor.Tophrase thematterinmodern,youthfulterms,Icouldsay"packagetoursarearip‑off."Letmebe specific.
Thetravelagencywhichlengagedofferedmeapackagetour,foraSingletraveler,atthe costof¥59,500.However,bypursuingtheself‑reservationroute,Ifoundthatitwaspossible formetoobtaina2‑nightsand3‑daystrip,includingtwobreakfasts,atacostof¥46,840 (includingservicecharges),adifferenceof¥12,660.Perhapsthedifferencemightbethecost oftwoeveningmeals？However，evenifitwere，itwouldbenodiscountontheon−location costofthemeals.(Moreover,on‑locationmealarrangementswouldofferthetravelerthe greaterflexibilityofchoosingeitheralessexpensivemeal,amoreexpensivemeal,oreven takingtheoptionofeatingatadifferentlocationandatadifferenttime.)However,thatpack‑
agetourlwasofferedfor¥59,500didNOTincludedinner‑breakfastonly.Forwhatwas theadditional￥12，660？Ido、，tknow・
Basically,thepackagetourintroducednosavingsforthetraveler,indeedmightactually
costthetravelermore,4andcausedthetravelertobeconfinedtoascheduleandlocality whichhemightprefertoalteruponfirst‑handacquaintanceafterarrivalathisdestination.
Thepackagetour,therefore,wasnotadeal.Rather,itismorelikethosecarnivalsalesgim‑
micksofmarketinga@0mysterygift"inapackageforwhichyoupayaunitaryprice,andthen takepotluckonyourselection.
2.Thetransitorypleasuresoftransit
IwaseagerlylookingforwardtomyscheduledtriptoMiyako,andhadplannedmydepar‑
tureforatimewhichlthoughtwasmostdesirable:10:30Mondaymorning,thetwenty‑third ofSeptember,1991.Thefirstflight,departingat7:30,wasinconvenientlyearlyforme, whileforthenextflight,atlO:30,IwouldbetravelingthroughNahaatthetailendofthe morningemploymentrush.Inallhonesty,however,thetwoafternoonflights,at3:50and 5:40,hadfilledearly,perhapsbecausethatMondaywasaholiday.Forme,however,itwas noholiday.I'llexplain.
Tobegin,wehadallboardedtheplaneandhadsettledourselvesintoacomfortableexpec‑
tancywhenwewereaskedtoreturntotheboardinglobby‑enginetrouble.Nearlyanhouraf‑
terourscheduleddeparture,wetookoff,thoughunderstandablyoursenseofexpectancywas somewhatlessthancomfortable.Nonetheless,wearrivedwithoutmishap‑except,Iamtold, thedownpourwhichweconfrontedaswedeplanedatagooddistancefromtheairportentr‑
ancehadbegunonlyamomentafterthedoorsofourplanewereopened.
Asismyhabit,Iwasoneofthelasttogetofftheplane,butthatdidnotsavemefrom gettingsoaked.Myreasonfornotbeinghastyinleavingtheplanewasnot,however,concern abouttherain;rather,Iwasinnohurrybecauselhadthreehoursearlierarrivedatthe Nahaairportwithagolfbagandacarry‑onluggagebag,whichlcheckedthroughratherthan carryingbyhandsincemygolfbaghadtobetransportedintheluggagesectionanyway.
Althoughlhadanticipatedacertainamountofdelayinwaitingformyluggageafterarrival inMiyako,Iwasnotpreparedfortheextentofdelaythatlfacedatthattime.Quiteby chance,inpartbecauseofourdelayedarrival,twootherplanesarrivedwithintenminutesof ourflight.Asaconsequence,Miyakoairport'ssinglerotarytrackforluggage,whichwas sufficientforoneflight,wasbeingloadedwiththeluggageofthreeflights,andthearrival roombecamepackedwiththepassengersofthoseplanes.Somehow,thoughlwasonthefirst ofthosethreeflights,mybagsendedupbeingamongthelasttoloopthroughthebaggage
claimarea.
Bythetimelstruggledthroughtothearrivallobby,totingmybriefcase,satchel,golf‑
shoesbag,andgolfbag,therebeingnocartavailabletome,Ifoundthatthelimousinebus
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servingtheMiyakojimaTokyuResort,wherelhadareservationforthatandthenextnight, hadalreadyleft.Ilookedaroundforsomeonetoassistmeinmydilemma,butfoundnoone available.Finally,fromapay‑phone,Itelephonedthehotelandlearnedthatiflwouldwait forthenextplanetoarrive,fortyminuteslater,Icouldridethebuswiththosepassengers.
Alternatively,Icouldrideataxi,forafareofaboutl,300yen.Itwasthenl:30.Iwaitedfor thenextplane,andthenlefttheairportonthebusleasedbythehotel.Ilefttheairportat 2:30.MyoriginaldeparturetimefromNahawasscheduledforlO:30.Ihadexpectedaforty‑
fiveminuteflightorso,andhadlookedforwardtobeingatmyhotelbynoon,planninga leisurelystrollorinvigoratingswimandalightlunchbeforecheck‑int加eattwo,orearlier, iflwasallowed.Instead,Iarrivedtired,frustrated,andhungryalmostthreehourslaterthan Ihadanticipated,andtheafternoonwashalfgone.
3.Heavenisforthehumbie‑buttheydon'tgetaroomwithaview
Uponarrivingatthehotel,sincelwastravelingaloneandthereforehadalreadybeenin‑
formedbythetouristagencythatlwouldbegivena"single"room,Imeeklyacceptedafifth‑
floorroomneartheelevator,beingsatisfiedthatalthoughlwasnotonthetopfloorlhadthe secondhighestofthehotel'sfoursinglerooms,andalthoughldidnothaveaviewontothe ocean,anddidnothaveabalcony,theroomseemedtomeatthetimeinviting,especiallyso aftermypreviousfrustrations,eventhoughitwasscarcelylargerthanasmallbusinesshotel room‑Iwasatleastaguestinaplushresorthotel,withfullprivilegesoftheuseofitsfacili‑
ties!ThoseweremythoughtsasthehotelclerkcarriedoffmygolfgearfOrstoragenearthe hotelentrance,andlambledoffintheotherdirectiontowardstheelevator.
Ishouldmention,however,thatthefacilitiesoftheroomlwasassignedwerenotparticu‑
larlyelegant.Thesmallclosethadnoconceilingcurtaineven,nottospeakofadoor.Theunit bathwassmall,butofsufficientsizetobeabletoturnaroundin・Thebed,whichwas equippedwithaheadboardalarmclock,andatelephoneabove,wassomewhatlargerthan twin‑size,whichmeantittookupnearlyallofthespaceoftheroom.Atthefootofthebed, therewasatelevision,butwitharemotecontrolwhichfailedtofunction.Therewasalow shelfforasuitcase,ontopofwhichwasanominous.lookingcanofinsecticide,aplug‑invapo.
matdevicewithonepackagedmatfordiscouragingmosquitoes,andahairdrierwithitscord wrappedarounditlikeawindingsheet.Thisluggage‑shelfwasattachedtoashallowdesk, thesmallsurfaceofwhichwascoveredwithalluringbrochurespromotingthepleasuresof thehotel.Nexttothedesk/dressercombinationwasato‑be‑plugged‑inthermos,accompanied byacupandonebagofgreentea,andalistofthecontentsofthesmallrefrigeratorbelow.
Betweentherefrigeratorandthesmallwindow,therewasperhapsanother20or30
centimetersofemptyspace.Fromthewindow,whenthecurtainwaspulledbackandlstood withmynosetothepane,Ihadaviewoftheparkinglot,andbeyondcouldglimpseaportion oftheentrancedrivewayandthetenniscourts.
Ispenttwonightsintheroom‑sleeping‑andnottoouncomfortablybecausemostofmy timewasspentoutsidetheroom.ItwasnotuntilafterlcheckedoutatllWednesdaymorn‑
ingthatlbecameuncomfortable.Itwasatthattimethatlaskedthehotelstafftoshowme theirotherroomfacilities.Iwasthengivenatouroftheroyalsuiteandgivenachanceto comparetheirsuites,twokindsoffamilyroom,andwhatmightotherwisebeconsideredthe bottom‑of‑the‑line:thestandardtwinroom.
Itshouldbementionedherethattheroomlstayedinisoccupiedatapriceofll,000yen pernight,notincludingmeals,whilethetwinisoccupiedbytwopersonsforatotalpriceof 21,000.Indeed,hadlknownofitandrequestedit,Icouldhavestayedinoneofthestandard twinroomsallbymyself,hadlbeenwillingtopaythelO,000yenextracharge.Andwhat wouldlhavegottenforthatextramoney？Aroomaboutthreetimesthesizeoftheonelwas in,abathroomabouttwicethesize,alargercloset,withadoor,ahairdrierwithitsownwall‑
rack,alongerdresser/desk,twocomfortablechairswithalowtablenestledinbetween,anda generousbalconywithaviewoverKurimalsland,Yonahamaehamabeach(alsoknownasマ イパマビーチ),andthespacious,manicuredhotelgroundsthatspreadoutbetweenthehotel
andtheshoreline.
Aboutthosemattersldidn'tcomment,butwhenlremarkedtothehotelstaffmemberthat thestandardtwinroomhewasshowingmewascleanerthantheonelhadbeenin(which hadhadaplentifulandvisiblesupplyofdustalongthetopofthewalldecoration),here.
markedapologeticallythatthe"individual"roomswereusuallyoccupiedby"tourguideJ,im‑
plyingthatlshouldnotjudgetheotherroomsonthebasisoftheonelwasacquaintedwith.
Andinthatmannerllearnedthatalthoughlamonlyfouryearsshyofbeingabletoqualify asasenioringolf,andthereforesurelyduesomeconsideration,Ihadhadtopayhalfthe priceofatwinroom(actuallyfivehundredyenmorethanthestandardTokyotouristpaid forhisshareofadouble‑occupancyroom),andatatimewhenthehotelwaslessthanaquar‑
terfilled…andforallofthatlhadbeengivenakeytotheservantgquarters.Suddenlythe thrillofhavingenjoyed"onegloriousmoment"vanished.5
4.Thesportinglifeoftheleisureclass
MyfirstdayattheMiyakojimaTokyuResort,Iconfesslenjoyedaverygoodmid‑after.
nonsobainakindofcoffeeshoporloungetheycallBarMoonshell,andthenintheevening, afteraswim,tastedtheirpackage‑tourdinner,butlwillwriteofsuchmatterslater.My
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secondday,afteraseveno'clockbreakfastatthehotel,wherelwasfirstinanon‑existant line,IwenttoEmeraldCoastGolfLinkswherelmetafriendwhoiscurrentlyabranchoffice managerinMiyako,havmgrecentlybeentransferredthere,whetherasrewardorpunishment Icannotventuretoguess.
Ishouldmentionthatlamnotparticularlyproficientatgolf,farlesssothanmyfriend, butIhavemanagednottoshamemyfriends,colleagues,andbusinessacquaintances,with whomlhaveplayedatSouthernLinks,Kokusai,Naha,Ryukyu,BelBeach,Daikyo,andahost ofshortcoursesscatteredthroughoutOkinawa.EmeraldCoastisdifferent.
Foronething,therearenocaddies.Theabsenceofcaddiesonashortcoursehasnever concernedme,butlamproudtosaythatwhenusingwoodlcanactuallydrivetheball beyondthecapacityofmyeyesight,surelysomethinglcouldnotbeproudofiflhadtoplay regularlywithouttheassistanceofakeen‑sightedcaddie.Nevertheless,inspiteofwhat seemedtomeatthetimeanendlessamountofhuntingforseeminglylostballs,andthe numerousapologiesformistakingmyfriend'sballformyown,weactuallymanagedtocom‑
pletethel8holes,and6912yards,inlessthanfourhours・Astounding・Thereason？We rodeinstyleinafour‑seater,canopiedgolf‑cart.Ourcart,bytheway,waslavishlysupplied withathermosofplainwaterandfourpapercups.Wescarcelytouchedthewater,however, because,thoughtherewerenohutsorhavensalongthecourse,wewerebothmetbyand passedanumberoflargercartswhichwereoperatedbyfriendlydamselswhoboasteda bountifulsupplyofice‑beddedcannedbeverages,suchasOrionbeer,soft｡drinks,sports drinks,andvitamindrinks・Theyofferedusnofood.Asllearnedlater,theyalsohadgolf‑
balls,butnotees.Butwhatprobablyspedusalongourwaywasthefactthattherewere neitherbenchesnorshade‑treesatthetee‑grounds.This,ofcourse,didnotdisturbusexces‑
sively;however,itdidoccurtomethatmembersofapartyoffourmightbelesssatisfiedby thatsituation,formorethanoncelwashappytoteeoffquicklyandthenspeedmywayback totheshelteringshadeofthecart.
Butthoughtheteegroundslackedtheamenitiesofbusierandslowermovinglinks(Ihad heardthatEmeraldLinksletnomorethan30to40partiesadayplaytheround),thegreens wereanexcitingchallenge,andoftenwithadistractingviewoftheocean.Thebunkers,too, offeredadifferentchallenge,havingasandconsistencydifferentfromwhatlwasacquainted with;however,unlikemostchampionshipcoursesthatl'macquaintedwith,thesandtraps werenotinthetopconditionlexpectedthemtobeforearly‑morningstarterssuchasus.In fact,Ioftenhadthefeelingthatthecoursewasdesignedandrunmoreforthosevisitorswho playedwithcamerasthanthosewhoplayedgolf.
Afterourroundofgolf,Iwasnotgreatlydisappointedtofindthattheclubhousehadonly shOwersbecause,thankstothecart,Ihadnotexercisedsomuchthatlfeltinneedofalong
tub‑soak.Thestand‑upshowerlhad(theusualsmalltubsandseatswerenottobeseen)was satisfyingenough.Infact,Iwasquitesurprisedtofindthewaterextraordinarilysoft・Later, whenlaskedaboutthis,Iwastoldthattherewasspecialtreatmentandsofteningequipment forthewaterbecausethewatersuppliedbyMiyako,thoughplentifulasaresultoftheunder‑
grounddamconstruction,washardandsomewhatcontaminatedbyoceanwaterandsewerage.
AsIsatenjoyingalightlunch,consistingofacreamsoup,pilaff,andsmallbuttasty salad,allprecededbyawell‑chilledmugofbeer,Iwasfascinatedbythedisplayofwaves crashingontotheshoreline.InoticedthattheEmeraldCoastdiningarea,thoughsmallerthan thatofSouthernLinksonOkinawa,offeredaparticularlyspectacularviewbecausethe coursewassetmuchlowerandclosertotheocean.Indiscussingthis,Ilearnedthatthe prox加itytotheocean,however,provedtroublesometothemanagementofagoodcoursebe‑
causethesea‑spraymadeitdifficulttokeepthecourseingoodcondition.Asaresult,Emer‑
aldCoasthadtouseconsiderablymorewaterthanmostotherislandgolfcoursesbecauseit wasnecessarytowashoffthesalinitybroughtinbythenearbyocean.
Ourlunch,thoughlight,hadbeenelegantanddelightful,withabeautifulviewoftheocean fromourtable,whichwascoveredwithathick,linentableclothandsetwithavaseofflow‑
ers,asee‑intopeppergrinderandmatchingrock‑saltgrinder‑somethingnewtome.Ourmeal hadbeenservedonsparklingwhite,goldtrimmedNoritakechina,withatastefulassortment offlatware.Butwhenthecoffeearrived,thesmallplastictake‑outstylepacketofcreameron thesaucershatteredmyimageofgraciousliving,andlhadnodesiretolingerlonger.
5.Theothersideofthefence‑wherethegrassgrowsgreener
Itwasabout2:30Tuesdayafternoonwhenwedroveoffinmyfriend'selegantToyota GrandSaloon,withitslace‑coveredvelvetseatsandelectricalconveniences,whichwereaddi‑
tionallycontrollablefromtherearseat.Hadlnotbeenridinginthepassengerseatinfront, nexttomyfriend,Imighthaveexperiencedthegrandeurthatlimaginemustbecommonplace tothosewhodriveforpleasureratherthannecessity,havingalwaysathandtheconvenience ofachauffeur.WeloopedeffortlesslydowntoHigashihennazaki(thesoutheasterncape), whereweenjoyedthesightandsoundofstrongwavesthrownupbytheoceanwhichwas announcingtoustheapproachoftyphoonnineteen,whichwasyetfartothesouth.Tome, thesoutheasterncapeofMiyakowasfarmoreexcitingthaneitherManzamoorCapeHedoof Okinawalsland,andlwasmesmerizedbythebeautyandpoweroftheocean,particularlyso aswehadearliertalkedabouttheGermanshipthathadcrashedofftheshoreinl873,from whichtimeMiyakotracesitsGermanconnection.
WestoppedtoviewthetwosectionsoftheBerlinwallboughtbyUenovillageataprice
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of20millionyen・Iwassurprisedtofindthewallnotsoveryhigh.Aworkofartwhen viewedfromthewest,butunremarkablewhenseenfromtheea､Itmademethinkaboutse‑
riousmatters‑freedomandentrapment,wealthandpoverty,opportunityanddespair.We
droveon.
Alongtheroadwepassedwhatiscalledafeedlot‑alargeopen‑airbuildingthathelda goodnumberofblackcattle.Iaskedmyfriendaboutthecattle,andhisanswerssufficiently prickedmycuriositythatthefollowingdaylrentedacaranddrovebyagaintoobtainmore information.OnWednesday,therefore,Ivisitedtwofeedlots,thefirstoneownedbyGusu.
kubevillageandoperatedbyoneman.Hetoldmethatthefacilities,whenfullyoccupiedat fourtofiveheadofcattleperbin,houseduptolOOanimals,thoughatpresenttherewere onlyeighty.Theanimalswerebroughttothefeedlotatanageofabout8months,wherethey stayedforatimeinwhatmightbeconsideredtheservant3quarters,andthenweregivena resort‑lifeexistenceforthenextyearandahalf,afterwhichtimetheywouldbegrantedan oceanvoyageto.Naha・Theirten‑year‑olddwellingwasdefinitelymoresturdilyconstructed thanmanyhomeslhaveseeninOkinawa,builtasitwasofreinforcedconcrete.Theyeven hadtheirownautomatictoiletsystem,thoughneitheroftheflushnorsit‑downvarietythat wemodernJapanesearenowaccustomedto.Rather,thefloorthecattlestandon,orlieonif thereissufficientroomandtheroommatesarecooperative,isconstructedofslatsthrough whichunwantedmatterconvenientlydrops,tobescrapedawaytwiceaday,automatically,by amechanicaldeviceoutofsightbelowfloorlevel.Atthefarendofthebuilding,"far'',thatis, fromthepointofviewoftheoperator'soffice‑dwellingwhichislocatedsomefiftymeters fromtheotherend,thetwice‑dailycollectiontravelsbyconveyorbelttowhatmightother‑
wisebeatwo‑cargarage,fromwhichitissubsequentlyshoveledbymachineintoavalley wherethegrassdoesindeedgrowgreen.
Thatgreengrassispartofthereasonforthatveryelegantresorthotelforcattlebeing situatedinMiyako,eventhoughultimately,afterthebutcheringinNaha,allthemeatwillbe transportedtoTokyoandOsaka,wheretherestaurantsthatsellthesteakswillbringin about70,000yenperkilo.InMiyako,thecattlecanenjoyatranquillife,shadedandshel.
teredfromthehotsun,cooledbyocean.bornebreezes,whilediningsumptiouslyonanever.
present"bovineチヤンプルー"(goulashforcattle)madeofrolledwheatfromAmerica,corn kernelsfromAustralia,ricepelletsfromJapan,andvariousotheringredientsincludingvita‑
minsupplementsandothernutrients・Forbulk,however,andgooddigestion,allofwhichis necessaryforproducinghigh‑qualitybeef,theydineonMiyakohay.Theimportedfeed,of course,isheavy･anddense,andrelativelycheapbyocean‑goingtransport,whereashayis bulkyandthereforemoreeconomicallyobtainedlocally.ButcheringinNahaisalsomorecon‑
venientandeconomicalthaninTokyoorOsakabecausetheweightofwasteisdisposedof
beforethelongersea‑transport,which,however,ismostlikelycheaperthanequivalentland transportationonmainlandJapan.
Attheotherfeedlotwhichlvisited,whichwasaboutfourtimesthesizeofthecommunity‑
ownedlot,threeoperatorsinformedmethatthecattlefromtheirMiyakocorporation‑owned lotwouldallbesoldtoKagoshimaforabout750,00yenperhead.
AndsoWednesday,afterhavingendedmystayattheMiyakojimaTokyuResort,Ihadthe opportunitytovisittheMiyakocattlearesortsbeforelcheckedintothecommoncityhotelin HiraraCity,wherelwastospendthenexttwonights,thoughIhadplannedtoleaveonthe lastplaneonThursday.Insomeregards,thelifeofthosecattleisnotsoverydifferentfrom thatoftheothervisitorstoMiyako‑comfortisamatterofeconomicopportunity‑andwho paysthebill.
6.Foodforthought
Thetopicofcattleandbeefbringsmebacktothetopicoffood.Icouldn'thelpthinking aboutthefactthatoneofthemarketedtouristattractionsofOkinawaistheavailabilityof comparativelyinexpensivesteakdinners.Ifounditamusingtorecallthatwhenlhadpartici‑
patedinacharitycompetitionatKokusaiGolfClubinmidsummer,Ihadseenintheres‑
taurantabrochurepromoting｡JTexasBeef".InOkinawaweeatbeeffromAmerica,andwheat fromAmericagoesintothebreadweeatforbreakfastjorservewithsteakdinners.In Miyako,wheatfromAmericaisfedtocattle,whichasaconsequencearetooprecioustobe consumedinOkinawaPrefecturebutareinsteadshippedtothefinestrestaurantsinTokyo, thecitywhichprovidesthetouristswhoeatourcheapAmericanbeef.
ItraveledtoMiyako,ofcourse,notfromTokyobutfromNaha・InMiyakoIlearnedthat thebestfishcaughtthereareboughtupearlyinthemorningandflowntoNaha,wherethey areeateninthefinestshopsthatveryafternoonorevening.IfthebestbeeffromMiyakois shippedtoTokyo,Osaka,andKagoshima,andthebestfishareflowntoNaha,whatcanthe dinerinMiyakoenjoy？Well,thereis,afterall,Miyakosoba、
Infact,thefirstmeallateinMiyakowassoba,servedinBarMoonshellattheMiyako‑
jimaTokyuResort.Thesobawasindeedverytasty,butaccordingtotheheadwaitressthere, whodressedinblue,distinguishingherfromthepart‑timewaitresseswhodressedinpink, thesobawasnotMiyakosobabutwassimilartothatpreparedinNaha.Thewaitress,who hadbeenworkingatthehotelsinceitsopeningeightyearsearlier,wasexceedinglywell‑man‑
neredandwell‑trained,butthepleasureoftalkingtoherdidnotoffsetmygeneraldiscomfort atbeinginBarMoonshell.
Perhapsitisamatterofpersonalpreference,butformytastethedecorationandmoodof
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BarMoonshell,atleastindaytime,wastoooppressiveandheavy.Thereisacentral,round pillar,aroundwhichisathick,deep‑counterseating‑areaadjacenttoawhitegrandpiano, sunkintothefloor.Theroundpillar,whichisfacedwithroughlimestonerock,asarethe wallSoftheroom,formsakindoftree‑trunkforhundredsuponhundredsoflarge,round, ivory‑coloredflatshells,strungintwo‑meterlengthsanddangledfromtheceiling.Theroom itselfiscircularinshape,withwindowsaroundatleasthalfoftheroom,butbeyondthewin‑
dowsthereisalongover‑hangingroof,sotheroomitselffeelsquiteinterioranddark,like somekindofcaveorgrotto,whichwasperhapstheintentionofthearchitect・Thehotel, however,proudlyexhibitsviewsofthebarinitsbrochures,soapparentlyothersareim‑
pressedbythedesignandornamentation.
Thenextevening,Tuesday,afterdininginHiraraCity,Ireturnedtothebar,ratherthan goingtomysmallroom,inordertogoovermynotesfortheday.Atthatt加e,incomparison tothedarknight,theroomappearedbright,buttheairconditioningwasquitechillingandl foundthewarmlightingandsoftmoistbreezeatthewoodentablesoutsidethebarunderthe overhangingrooffarmoreinviting.Insideperhapsadozenpeoplewereenjoyingcocktailsand eachother'scompany.Outsidetherewasonecouple,fourorfivemetersfrommytable,anda friendlyaudienceoffourstraycatsattendedmytable・Thelighting,theconditions,andthe servicewereperfectfortheworkofgoingovermynotesandplanningmynextday'sactivi.
ties,andlappreciatedhavingsuchaplaceathandwherelcouldtrulyenjoymyorderof bourbonbeforelstrolledleisurelybacktomyroom.
BarMoonshell,however,wasnottheonlyplacetoeatatthehotel.OnMondayeveningl haddinnerintheadjacentandlargerRestaurantShangri‑La,wherelalsohadbreakfaston TuesdayandWednesdaymornings.Thebreakfastslhadtherebecausewhenlobtainedmy hotelbooking,Ibookedfor"roomandbreakfast'',butdidnotpurchaseinadvancethedinner, whichwouldhaveadded5,500yentomybill.AttherestaurantMondayevening,Iasked whatwouldbeservediflhadhadadinnerticket,andlwastoldthatlwouldhavemychoice ofoneofthethree5,000‑yendinnersonthemenu.Forthesakeoftheexperience,andbe‑
causethosedinnerswerethemoderate‑priceddinners,withthetopdinnerrunningalittle overlO,000yen,Ichosethelobsterandsteakdinner.Ialsoorderedahalf‑sizebottleofthe secondleastexpensiveredwine,BichotMedoc・Thewaiteraskediflwantedthewineserved chilledorroomtemperature:dinnerwasdefinitelyofEuropean,continentalfashion.
Themealbeganwithacreamedtomatosoupwithafish‑basebroth,verymuchlikea Manhattan‑styleclamchowderexceptthattherewasnoclam・Followingthatcameamoist andtastylobster,butwithacream‑saucewithmushroomchunkswhichsomewhatoversha‑
dowedthetasteofthelobster.Thesteaklordered,withoutthewaiter'shavinginquired whetherlwanteditrare,medium,orwell‑done,arrivedatwhatmightbecalledmediumrare.
Itwasathick,butsmall,loinfilet.Itwasserved,Frenchstyle,withaspareassortmentof vegetables:しめじ(shimeji‑aJapanesevarietyofmushroom),cauliflowerflowerettes,and slicedcarrot.Thesalad,whichhad,again,anunrequesteddressingbutappearedtobeavari‑
etyofltalian,wasoflettuce,tomato,andcucumber,andwasservedwiththedinner,rather thanbefore.Rice‑Ihadbeengivenachoiceofbreadorrice‑wasservedonaplate.Dinner wasfollowedbyatasty,butmodest,sliceofhoneydewmelon,followedbyacupofcoffee.
Thedinnerwasgoodbut,notsurprisingly,wasnotworth5,000yen.Thewinewas perhaps,forarestaurant,reasonablypriced,butinallfairnessthedinnerwasnot,inmy opinion,worthmorethanthreeorfourthousandyen.
Nevertheless,beingoff‑season,thediningroomwasnotcrowded,andalthoughlwasthere toolateintheeveningtoenjoyaviewoftheocean,itwasenjoyabletogazeattheotherdin.
ers,mostofwhomtookwindowseatsinspiteofthefactthattherewasnothingtosee.Prefer‑
ence,itseems,iswithoutlogic.
7．Morethoughtsonfood
Thequestionofwhetherweeattoliveorlivetoeatisonelwilinotdwellon;however, withoutdoubtoneoftheattractionsoftravelingishavingtheopportunitytoexplorethetaste offoodindifferentareas.Nowadays,ofcourse,withairpassagecommonplaceandnational bordersscarcelyservingasanybarrieratall,itiseasyforpeopleinurbanareastodevelop acosmopolitantaste.Evenso,theythemselvesremainprovincialintheirpreferences.Asan exampleofthis,letmesharewithyoumyobservationoftheeatinghabitsofthetouristswho visitedMiyako.
Ihadbreakfasttwomorningsinarowatmyresorthotel,andwithoutadoubtitwasthe bestbreakfastavailableontheisland.(Breakfasttherehasapriceof¥1,400.)Thebreakfast wasservedinaself‑servicebuffetstyle,withonelongtableareadevotedtoaJapanesenotion ofwesternbreakfast,andtheotherdevotedtothehotel'sviewofaJapanesebreakfast.Dis‑
tinctlyOkinawanfoodwasnottobeseen.
Inadditiontothemainofferings,therewasasmallersalad‑and‑fruittable,whichheld, bothTuesdayandWednesday,lettuce,cannedcorn,and貝割大根(kaiwaredaikon‑radish sprouts),andofferedtwodressings,和風(wafu‑Japanesestyle)andThousandIsland.60n Tuesdaytheyalsoofferedcannedpeachslicesandpineapplesections,whichweresweetand good.OnWednesday,theofferingwaswatermelonslices,kiwihalves,andinneat,carry‑out packages,100‑gramservingsofpapayajelly,locallygrownandprocessed.Itooktheoppor.
tunity,therefore,tocarryawayfoodnotonlyinmytummy,butinmybriefcase.
Atthebeveragetable,itwaspossibletohaveinnumerablerefillsofanybeverage,with
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hotcoffee,servedfromtwospigot‑servers,andachoiceoftwofruitdrinks,fromrestaurant‑
stylegravity‑flowserversthatworkedwhentheglasswaspushedagainstahingedgate.The choiceofjuicewaseitherorangeorpineapple.AIsoavailablewashotwaterwhichcouldbe usedformakingcupsofeithergreenteaorCeylontea,dependingonwhichpackageoftea‑
bagswaschosen.
AttheJapanese‑stylefoodtable,thehotelguestcouldhelphimselfto野菜妙め(yasai itame‑stir‑friedvegetables),whichdifferedslightlyfromTuesdaytoWednesday,野菜煮つけ (yasainitsuke‑assortedvegetablesandfoodssoakedandcookedinsoysauce),ちきあぎ (chikiagi‑localkamaboko‑fishcake,onWednesday),sauteedfish(asmall,flatwhitefishon Tuesdayandsalmonthenextday),納豆(natto‑fermentedsoybeans),fresheggs,Japanese‑
style豆腐(tofu‑soybeancurd),海苔(nori‑driedseaweedwafers),きんぴらごぼう (kinpiragobo‑burdock),卵焼き(tamagoyaki‑rolledandslicedcookedeggbatter),asectionof fiveorsixkindsof漬物(tsukemono‑pickledvegetablecondiments),suchas梅干し (umeboshi‑Japaneseapricot),沢庵(takuan‑radishpickle),昆布(kombu‑slicedpickledkelp), らっきょう(rakkyo‑pickledscallions),Japanesesoup(赤だし(akadashi)with豆腐(tofu)and ワカメ(wakame)一redbean‑pastesoupwithsoybeancurdandseaweed),andagood,Japanese‑
stylerice.Unfortunately,theaccompanyingnoriwasnotsogood‑thewaferswereglued togetherandsticky;infactlwassurprisedthatthehotelwouldcontinuetoservesuchun‑
palatablepacketsofseaweed.
Thewesternfoodofferedwas,bothdays,scrambledeggs(Europeanstyle),linksausage, whitetoast(underaheatlamp),raisinbread,packetsofmargarine,strawberryjam,and orangemarmalade,andcornflakes,servedinalargepunch‑bowlfromwhichonescoopeda desirableamountintoone'sownbowlandthenpouredonwhatappearedtobemilkfroma large,hand‑heldplasticcontainer.Themilkwasclearlynottobemistakenforabeverage.On Tuesday,therewasadditionallyanofferingofbaconslicesandyakisoba(friednoodles), whichwasreplacedonWednesdaybysimilarofferingsofpressedhamslicesandspaghetti.
InoticedonWednesday(pleaserecallthatlhadeatenandleftearlyonTuesday)that therewasastrikingpreferenceamongthetouristsforpineapplejuice(perhapsastheresult ofadvertisingpromotionandthebeliefthattheyMUSTdrinkpineapplejuicewheninOkina‑
wa)andanoticeablepreferencefor…noodles.
ThetasteofthemainlandJapanesetouristswasalsoevidentTuesdayeveningwhenlde‑
cidedtohavedinnerinHiraraCity.Ileftthehotelaboutsevenintheevening,travelinginto towninataxiwhichhadtobeorderedbythehotel,thoughearlierinthedaytherewasa standinglineofthreeorfourtaxieswaitingforthechancetopickupafare.Thehotelstaff hadrecommendedthatlstrollalongNishizatostreet,whichhadanumberofreasonableand goodeatingplaces・Fromthetaxilsawaninteresting‑lookingusedbookstoreshortlybefore
thetaxiturnedontoNishizatostreet,solstrolledbacktoexplore麻姑山書房(theMakosan bookstore),andwasgratifiedtofindanumberofbookswhichinterestedme.Fromtherelre‑
turnedtothestreetthehotelpeoplehadrecommended・Ipassedacoupleofshops,andthen turnedintooneonmyright,whichhadaplentifulassortmentofemptyshoesonthefloorin frontofthetatamisection,andanumberofpeopleatthecounter,butspaceyetforme.
InSidetheshop,whichwascalled金多桜寿司(kintaro‑zushi),therewasanL‑shapedcoun‑
terseatingtwelvepeople,withnineortenseatspresentlyoccupied.Alongthewalltothe right,behindthepeoplesittingonthelonglegofthecounter,thereappearedtobeperhaps fourtablesontatamiwhichwereatthetimeseparatedintothreerooms,withmostofthe rice‑paperscreenspulledshut.Afterawhile,itappearedtomethatthecounterwasfilled withtourist‑visitors(whichwasconfirmedtomethenextdaywhenlobservedsomeofthe samepeopleatmyhotel),whilethetatamiroomswereforthemostpartoccupiedbylocals
whohadscreenedthemselvesofffromthevisitors.
Atthecounter,thesushi‑masterandhisassistantchattedinafriendlymannerwiththe counter‑seatedcustomers,aswellashavingbriefbutcomfortableexchangeswiththetatami‑
roomcustomersastheyleft.Perhapsasameansofencouragingsuchinformalrelations,both thesushi‑masterandhisassistantworename‑tags,thoughtheotherworkersdidnot.Allbut oneofthecustomersatthecounterweremale,andallwereinpairsexceptforonelonemale.
Thepercentageofwomenamongthetatami‑seatedcustomerswashigher,aswastherangeof agesrepresented,withthecounter‑seatedcustomers,exceptingmyself,beingintheir20sor early30s.Adistinctivefeaturewasthatmanycustomersexpressedappreciationwhende‑
parting,promisingthattheywouldreturnthenextday.
Asforthefood,itwasquitegood,andbytasteandappearanceappealingtomainland visitors.Infact,therewaswhatappearedtobearatherpermanentsignannouncingthe availabilityofねぎとろ巻(negitoromaki),andwhenlplacedanorderforsome,thesushi‑
master,whosenamewasMatsubara,appearedparticularlyexcited,probablybecausethetele‑
visionwasfrequentlyshowinginformationabouttheincomingtyphoon,andalreadythere wereannouncementsofflightcancellationstoMiyakothenextday.Themasterwasagood businessmanandknewthattherewouldbeneitherfreshfishnorfreshcustomersforthenext coupleofdaysandwasthereforedelightedtomakeasaleonanexpensivedishthatmight wellhavetobetossedout.Thefactthattheshopwasopenonlyuntilllpmalsosuggests thattheshophourswere,atleastintheevening,setprimarilyforguestswhocomeearlyand leaveearly,notforthelocalswhoarefamousoftheirenjoymentofお通り(otoori‑akindof drinkingbout).
LaterllearnedfromataxidriverthatthemasterwasfromHisamatsubuthadbeen trainedinTokyo.AsanOkinawan,Iwasproudtoseethemannerinwhichhedealt
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successfullywiththemainlandtourists,andwasabletorunaprofitablebusinesswithout givingtheappearanceofbeingcontrolled,disturbed,oroffendedbythosetouristcustomers.
ThetaxidriveralsoacknowledgedthatMatsubara'sshopwasoneofthemoresuccessful businessesinthearea,ingoodpartbecausehewasabletocatersosuccessfullytothetour‑
ists,afactorwhichisalsotrueforsuccessinmainlandOkinawa,ascanbeseenbythe
strengthandpopularityofsuchsushishopsas三郎(Saburo)andothers.Inthetaxi,riding
backtothehotel,Iwonderedwhethertherewasaninherentconflictbetweenpersistenceof localidentityandsurvivalasabusiness.Thiswasamatterlwouldconsideragainthenext daywhen,whiledrivingarentedcar,InoticedthatmanyshOpsaroundMiyakoappearto favornameswhicharemainlandincharacterratherthandistinctlyMiyako.
8.Theappealoftheunfamiliar
Perhapsisolated,whatmightbecalled"backwater,"areasareplaceswhosepeopleare naturallyattractedtothealluringnamesandimagesoftheurbanandseemingly"advanced"
areas.ItwasnotmerelymainlandJapanesenamesthatappealedtosuchpeople:thatWednes.
dayevening,afterlsettledintomycityhotel,Istrolledaboutlookingforaplacetoeat,and foundmyselfattractedtoasecond‑floorestablishment,孫悟空(Songoku),whichidentifiedit‑ selfasawestern・styled居酒屋(izakaya‑aJapanesepub).Itoowasattractedbytheflavorof foreignappeal.
Earlierthatday,forlunch,IhadfoundalittleshopinGusukube,inspiteofthefactthat notlongbeforelhadbeentoldthattherewerenorestaurantsinthatdirection・Actually,I hadbecomesomewhatlost,asthemapswhichthecar‑rentalshopprovidedwerewoefullyin‑
adequate,andhadpulledintoagasolinestationtoaskforamap,whichtheytoodidnothave.
However,theydiddirectmetoanearbyshopwhereIwasfinallyabletoenjoyMiyakosoba.
Therefore,havingbeensatisfiedthatlhadtastedagoodsampleofthelocalfare,Iwascu‑
rioustoexplorethisso‑calledwestern‑styleizakaya.
Theentrytotheshopwasaspiralstairwell,thewallsofwhichwerepaintedwithscenes ofcowboysasiffromwesternmovies.Inside,theplacehadamostextraordinarycollectionof strangeandcuriousitemsanddecorations,fromship'sclocksandchainstobuffalohornsand westernparaphernalia.Becausetherainsoftheapproachingtyphoonhadalreadystarted,and indeedtheresorthotelhadalreadytheeveningbeforebegunmakingpreparations,suchas pullingdownnetscreensinfrontofwindowsandsettingupshutterstoprotectotherwise open‑airwalkways,therewerefewpeopleonthestreets,andonlyonecustomerintheshop whenlarrived.Therewere,however,threeemployees,includingthemaster,whowas perhapsinhis30s.Heappearedtomeatfirsttobeamainlander,butturnedouttobe
Okinawan.Thetwoemployeeswereyounger,onemale,onefemale.Incontrasttothehotel, andthesushishopthatlhadvisitedtheeveningbefore,atthisplacetheemployeeswerenot particularlywell‑trained…orperhapssowelltrainedthattheygavetheimpressionthatthe masterwassimplylenientwiththem.Whetheritwasbyaccidentordesign,whenlordered 天ぷら盛り合わせ(tempuramoriawase‑assortedbatter‑friedfoods)Iwasservedinstead刺 身盛り合わせ(sashimimoriawase‑assortedrawfishslices),whichwasconsiderablymoreex‑
pensive.ItarrivedjustatthetimelwasgettinguptomakeaphoneCall,andsolremarked aboutthemistake,butsaidlwouldbesatisfiedwiththeorderthathadarrived.However,by thetimelreturnedfrommyphonecall,Ifoundthatlhadbeenservedboth.Imyselftendto blametheerroronthewaitress,butlmustadmitthatthecircumstancesweresuchastobe unclearandthemaster,Noharabyname,usedhischarmandwittopersuademetoaccept both.Furthermore,themaster'sartistictaste,bothintheunusualdecorationofhisshop, whichiswellworthvisiting,andinhisarrangementandservingoffood,wassuchasto appeasemytemperandlfoundmyselfnotonlyenjoyingthefoodbutbeingpersuadedto orderhismostexpensivebottleofawamori,whichllatertookwithmewhenheclosedhis shopearlybecauseofthestorm.
9.Darkness‑themoodofthestorm
Wednesdaynight,nearllpm,afterlleftthewestern‑styleizakaya,Iwalkedbackthe shortdistancetotheHotelNewMarukatsu,wherelhadbeengivenaroomonthefifthfloor.
Theroomtheyassignedmewasalsoasortofbusiness‑hotelroom,exceptthatitwaslarge enoughtoholdtwotwinbeds,withwalkingspacebetween,andtherewasenoughroomfor twochairsandasmalltableatthefootofthebeds.Thewindowwasconsiderablylargerthan thatinmyroomoftheprevioustwonights,andthesamewastrueofeverythingelse.Itwas old,butlwascomfortable,thoughtheshowerhadbeensopoorlymaintainedthatthewater sprayedoutlaterally,causingmesomeinconvenience.Butonarainynight,itwasgoodto haveadryandcomfortableplacetosleep.
Thenextmorningstartedoutwellenough,withbreakfastintheground‑floordiningroom.
Asimpleandunremarkablebutsatisfyingbreakfa､Asitwasrainingheavilyoutside,and thewindblowingstrong,Ihadalreadydecidedthatlwouldspendthedayinside,goingover mynotesandtakingadvantageofagoodexcusefornothavingtogoanywhere.Unfortunate‑
ly,Ihadscarcelybeguntowork,havingorderedacupofcoffeetofollowmybreakfast,when wewereplungedintodarkness‑noelectricity.
Darkness.
Theproblemwithlivinginthismodernworldisthatwebecomeincreasinglydependent
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onmechanically‑contrivedregularity・Perhapsiflhadbeenafishermanorafarmerlmight havedevelopedagreatertoleranceforuncertainty,irregularity,unpredictability.Ihadex‑
pectedthestorm,yes,ofcourse:myfirsteveninginMiyakolhadenjoyedswimminginthe strongsurfthatcrashedontothesoft,sandybeachinfrontoftheMiyakojimaTokyuResort (thoIighthesanddidn'tfeelsoftwhenlwasunexpectedlyslammedintoitbyanincoming wavejustaslwastryingtogetoutofthewater),andthenextdaylhadenjoyedwatching thewavesbreakinfrontofEmeraldCoastGolfLinksandatHigashihennazaki,andlatethat afternoonlenjoyedstrollingonthegroundsoftheMiyakojimaTokyUResort,talkingtolkei, whocontrolsthehotel'swatertreatment,andwatchingthehotelemployeesfasteningdown netscreensinfrontofwindowsandboardinguptheopen‑airpassageways,andthateveningl hadenjoyedwatchingMatsubara'sattentivenessbothtohissushicustomersandtothefre.
quenttelevisionreportsonthetyphoon,andthenextdaylhadevenenjoyeddrivinginthe stronggustywinds,whichofferednothreat,Ithought,becausetherewerefewcarsonthe roadsinMiyako・Yes,Iknewthetyphoonwascoming・Butsomehow,Ihadnotanticipated beinginconvenienced.Andlhadnotanticipatedtheextentofmyannoyanceatthat
lnconvenlence・
Itseemsthatwhenoneisathome,infamiliarsurroundings,whereoneis‑orimagines himselftobe‑incontrol,disruptionssuchaspoweroutagesaremoreeasilyaccepted.But whenoneisawayfromfamiliarsurroundings,awayfromfriendsandfamily,anykindofdis‑
ruptionorfrustrationbecomesmagnifiedinitspsychologicaleffect.Thesuddenplungeinto darkness,theerasureofmywell‑plannedschedule,theimmediatesenseofconfinementwith‑
outpurpose‑allofthatwastomelikethatMonday'sexperienceofsteppingoutofanen‑
vigoratingswimintheocean,lookingforwardtograbbingatoweltowipethesalt‑wateroff myface,andyetbeingsuddenlyovertakenbyastrongwavethatslammedmeface‑downonto thebeach,fillingmymouthandearswithsandaslstruggledtocrawloutofthewater.The suddenawarenessofone'salonenessisunnerving.
Isatandwaited,butthelightsdidnotreturn.Slowly,othersbegantofileoutofthedin‑
ingroom,headingforthelobby,whichwasequallydark,butbythencandlesbeganappearing andflashlightswerefound.Itoomovedouttothelobby,andthendecidedtomakeaphone call,onlytobefrustratedbythefactthatlhadautomaticallywalkeduptoaphonethattook cardsonly,andbythetimeldiscoveredthat,someoneelsewasbusilyusingtheoldercoin‑
phonethatlhadpassedby.Forgettingthattheelevatorwasnotoperating,Idecidedtoreturn tomyroom…andthenrememberedthatminewasonthefifthfloor.Ichangedmymindandin‑
steaddecidedtogotothemen'sroom,butthenhadtoreturntothefrontdesktoaskfora flashlight.Atthetime,Ifeltnothinghumorousinthesituation,andmymoodwasablackas thedarknessthestormhadbroughttous.
Suddenlythelightscamebackon.Andthenjustassuddenlytheywentout.Ireturnedto myroom・Itwasbrighterthere,butlwasnolongerinamoodtowork.Iwantedtotakeahot shower…butthewaterrancold・Therewasnothingtodo,nothingtobedone.Imademy phonecalls.Myplaneforthatnightwasalreadycancelled;Ihadknownthatforalmost twenty‑fourhours,buthadexpectednoprobleminrebookingforanotherflight.However, whenlcalledtheSWALofficesinNaha,aslhadtodobecausethelocalSouthwestAirLines officeswereclosedforreasonoftheStorm,IlearnedthatFriday'sflightswerebookedfull, withthemorningflightscancelled.Theytoldmelshouldgoto花笠空港(HanagasaKuko‑the Miyakoairport)Fridaymorningtoapplyforstandby.Frustrationandinconvenience‑the touristagenthadgivenmenoinstructionsorinformationtopreparemeforthis.Thestaffat thehotelhadnotinquiredwhetherlhadmadeadequatearrangements.Ifeltstrandedand
abandoned.
Thursdaywasnotagoodday.Thestormragedoutside,thehallwaysandlobbyofthe hotelbegantoresemblewhatlimaginearefugeecampmustlooklike:thingsthatshouldhave beenelsewheregotmovedaround,sheetsandtowelscoveredthefloorswherewaterwas accumulating,bucketscaughtdripsnotfarfromthedoortomyroom.Therewasnoroomser‑
vice,andourbeddingdidnotgetchanged.Theclimbtothefifthfloordidnotfeellikeholiday exercise;itsimplyfeltexhausting.Imadephonecalls.TheMiyakoGrandHotel,notfaraway, wasalsowithoutelectricity,butllearnedthattheBankoftheRyukyus,nextdoortothat hotel,hadlightsonthoughtheywereclosed、Acrossthestreetfromthebank,KentuckyFried Chickenwasopenforbusiness‑theonlyfood‑servingshopintheareathathadelectricity.I askediftheyhadagenerator・No,simplyfortunate.Ispeculatedthatbecausetheyandthe bankwererecentconstructionstheywerereceivingelectricityfromadifferentcircuit.I calledtheMiyakojimaTokyuResort.Thereelectricitywason,andtheyhadback‑upgener‑
atorsincaseofapoweroutage・Foratimelconsideredrelocatingfortheday,ifnotthe night,butlremainedinHiraraCity.Thistoowaspartoftheexperienceoftraveling.
Bydinnertime,powerhadbeenre‑established.Althoughlhadsleptmuchoftheday,I wastiredandhadlittleappetite・Butslowlythereturntonormalcy,asthepeakofthestorm hadpassed,broughtwithitaslowreturnofmyownnormalmood.Fridaywouldbebetter.
10．Departure‑areturntodarkness
FridaymorningIhadbreakfastatthenearbyGrandHotelwhereIwouldbeservedonthe 6thfloorfromwhichlcouldseeoutovertheharbor,glisteningbrightandbluethatmorning followingthestorm.Ialsothenhadanopportunitytomakesomecomparisonsoftworather similarhotels.AlthoughtheGrandappearedsmallerandolder,italsoseemedtohavebeen
‑ 7 1 ‑
eitherbetterconstructedormorefortuitouslysituatedinthattherewaslessevidenceofleak‑
age,thoughtherewerelargewetareasnearthewindowsinthesixthfloorskylinedining area.Ilearnedthat,unliketheNewMarukatsu,theGrandhadmanagedtohavetheguests' bedlinenchangedthedaybefore.Ialsolearned,becauseltriedforthesakeofcomparison, thatthereisindeedasubstantialdifferenceinclimbingbystairwaytothesixthfloorofthe GrandandthefifthflooroftheNewMarukatsu.No,indeedtheelevatorwasworkingthat morning,butlhadwantedtoexplorethehotelsomewhat.Onenotablediscoverywasthatthe levelofthestepsattheGrandislowerthanthelevelattheNewMarukatsu,withtheresult beingthatawalk‑upismuchlesstiringattheGrand.Breakfasttherewasalsomoreattrac‑
tivelyservedandmoreappealing,withasmallwholefishbeautifullycooked,butunfortunate‑ lytheappealwasonlyintheappearance‑thefishwasrathertasteless.Isupposethatwasin partbecauseitwasacold‑storagefish,forsurelyfreshfishhadnotbeenavailableforthe lastfewdays・Thenori,however,wasthefreshestandmostcrispthatlhadhadthroughout
mytimeinMiyako.
Afterbreakfast,IstrolledovertothenearbyOkinawa･TouristServiceofficeandlearned thatflightstoNahawerealreadybookedupsolid,Friday,Saturday,andSunday.Asapre‑
caution,IdidmanagetogetaseatonthelastflightonSunday.Itookataxitotheairportto beginmystandbywait.Thetaxidriver,notthetouristagents,neitherinMiyakonorinNaha, toldmethatlshouldhavegonetotheairportasearlyaspossible‑atseven‑becausearriving aslwasnear9:30,Imightnotbeabletogetaflightoutthat.day,unlessanextraplane couldbearranged.Hesaidthatvisitorssometimeshadtowaitaslongasthreedaysafterair servicewasresumedinordertobeabletodeparttheisland.Iwassurprised,forlhadseen fewpeopleatanyofthehotels.
AttheSWALcounter,Iwasissuedstandbyticketnumber352.Thepersoninfrontofme, whowasalsogoingstandbybutnotonaccountofaflightcancellation,wasgivenregular standbyticketnumberlO.Iheardthatafterallflight‑cancellationstandbypassengerswere offeredaseat,then,ifseatswerestillavailable,theywouldbeofferedtoregularstandby ticketholders,onafirst‑come‑first‑servedbasis.Thecounterpersonneltoldmethatitwas highlyunlikelythatanextraplanewouldbescheduled.Iwentupstairstohavecoffeeandto goovermynoteswhilewaitingforthefirstplaneoftheday,themorningflightsbeingall
cancelled.
Ihadbeentoldthatstandbynumberswouldbeginbeingannouncedtwentyminutesbefore departuretime,butfiveminutesearlier,atl2:25,theloudspeakerintherestaurant announcedthatstandbynumbersupto20wouldbeaccepted.Ifeltnoneedtohurryfrommy goodseatattherestaurantbecausemyownnumberwasquitehigh.Ilookedatmywatch.
Twominuteslater,theannouncementcameacceptingnumbersupto40・Thenagain,at
two‑minuteintervalscamethenumbers60,80,100,110.Twentysecondslater,120.Ahun‑
dredsecondslaterl30,thentensecondstol40.Immediatelyfollowingthatcamethe announcementforpassengerstoboard・Twominuteslatercamenumberl48,andanothertwo minuteshadpassedwhenl49wascalled,followedimmediatelybytheannouncementthatthe planewasfilled.Itriedtofeelhopeful.Mynumberwas352.Butaslwatchedtheplanefill, taxiaway,andthentakeoff,Isimplyfeltsadandlonely.
Perhapsthirtyminuteslater,aboutl:15,IvisitedtheSWALcounteragainandlearned thatofthel49standbynumberscalled,about30seatshadbeentakenupbystandbypas‑
sengers.Ialsolearnedthatalthoughprivatepersonsmustpickuptheirstandbynumbersin‑
dividually(andwere,aslhadbeen,advisedtostayattheairport),tourguideswerepermitted topickupnumbersfortheirentiregroup.AgaintheSWALpersonsaidthatanextraflight wasunlikelybecauseSWALhasfewplanesandallwereconstantlyinuse.Ilearnedlater fromastewardessthatthelargestcapacityplanethatSWALcurrentlyhasholdsl30passen‑
gers.Ibegantoleavetheticketcounter,feelingdiscouraged,butthestaffmembertoldme thatforthenextflight,departingatl6:25,thenumberswouldbeginatl50.
Istrolledaroundtheairport,purchasedsomegifts,andthenresettledintoanothercof‑
feeshopwherelwouldnotbedepressedtoseeplanestakingoffwithoutme.Imademyself comfortableonthetatamithereandbeganthinkingabouttheinformationlhadobtained.I wonderedwhethertourguideshadaccesstomoreandbetterinformationthanusunimportant individualtravelers.Perhapstherewasagrouptourrightnowholdingnumbersonetotwen‑
tysomewhereenjoyinganextraday,brightandsunny,onMiyako,havinglunchwherethey couldseetheocean,ortakingalastswiminaninvitingpool,andthattheywouldshowup justintimetotakeupalltheextraseatsinthenextflight.TheSWALpersonhadtoldmethe numberswouldstartatl50−butdidthatmean allnumbersuptoandincludingl50"？And howdidthestandbysystemreallywork？Wasitpossiblewhenlower−numberstandbytickets wereturnedinthattheticketagentmightbeabletoreissueausednumbertosomeonewho hadactuallycometotheairportmuchlaterthanlandwouldthereforenonethelessbeableto departbeforel？Ihadbeentoldonlythatabout30seatsonthatfirstflighthadgoneto standbyholders.Therewasnopostingofwhichnumbershad"won"aseat.Ifeltmyselftrap‑
pedagainindarkness,anotherkindofdarkness‑Iwasbeingkeptinthedarkabouthow thingsreallyworked.Iwastotallydependentonthefairnessoftheairline'semployeesand theirsystemof"justice."
Shortlybeforefourpm,Idecidednottowaitinthecoffeeshopbuttobeonhand,waiting infrontoftheticketcounter,whenthenextstandbynumberswereannounced‑itwouldnot beMYfaultifldidn'tridethenextplane.Iexpectedcallstobeginat4:05.Oneminutebe‑
forethat,theannouncementcamethattheplanewouldbe35minutesdelayedbecauseoflate
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arrival.ItoccurredtomethattheplanemusthaveleftNaha35minuteslate,andtherefore thestaffmusthavealreadyknownfor25minutesthattheflightwouldbedelayed．Ithought aboutthefactthatinformationwasmadepublicattheconvenienceofthecompanyandits employees,notattheconvenience,orforthebenefit,oftheanxiouspassengersandtheirfami‑
lyandfriends.Iexpectedthatperhapsthestandbynumberswouldbeginbeingcalledthirty‑
fiveminuteslate,too,butat4:16cametheannouncementforholdersofstandbyticketnum‑
bers222‑240topleasecometotheticketcounterimmediately.Whathadhappenedtothat magicnumberl50？So,indeed,somepeopledidgetpreferentialtreatment1Well,Ithought,at leasttheywerebeingstraightforwardandhonestaboutit・Butlcalculatedthatnineteenextra seatshadjustbeenswallowedup.Iwaspessimisticaboutmakingthisnextflight.Aminute latercametheannouncement,numbersuptoandincluding270.Abigjump.Aminutelater 300．Anotherminute,320.Anotherminute,330.Ifeltexcited.Timetickedby.Iwaitedex‑
pectantly・Fourminutespassed.Itwas4:24,stillearly.Theycalledout332.Aminutelater, 334.At4:26theyannouncedtheplanefilledwithstandbynumber333.Ifeltsadtohave missedtheflight,butoptimisticaboutmychancesonthenextone.Then,perhapsfiveminutes later,theyannouncedthatanextraflightwouldbedepartingat6:10,withticketsavailable onafirst‑come‑first‑servedbasisfiftyminutesbeforeflighttime.Iwantedtogetaticketright awaysinceIfeltmystandbyticketgavemearighttoearlybooking,buttheysaidno.Never‑
thelesslwashappy.Irelocatedtothedownstairs"Garden"coffeeshopandenjoyedabeer.I wouldbehometonight!
Laterfromtheplane'sstewardessesllearnedthattheplanewerodehadbeenscheduled forMatsuyamabutwasoff‑scheduledbecauseoftyphoonconditions.Ithadbeenflownempty fromNahabyacrewthathadbeenon@dstandby"sincenoon,andweregivenconfirmationof overtimeworkataboutthreeintheafternoon.Weanxiously‑waitingpassengersinMiyako hadbeeninformedoftheextraflightataboutthetimethattheplaneactuallytookofffrom Nahaterminal.
Itwasrainingagain,lightly,bythetimeweboardedtheplane,thoughthistimetheairline hadbrightyellowumbrellasavailable‑perhapsoutofconsiderationfortheirownconven‑
ienceofnothavingwetpassengersontheirplane,forsurelytheumbrellasweremorebadly neededthedaylarrived(ontheotherhand,perhapstheavailableumbrellasthatdayhadall gonetotheoneortworegularly.scheduledflightsthatarrivedsoonaftermydelayed‑arrival flight).
Thesunwassetting,orsoontoset,behindacurtainofcloudsatthetimeofourtake‑off, forldidnotseeitagainthatday.Asweapproachedourceilingaltitude,Ilookeddownatthe blanketofcloudsbelowus.Theyappearedtobeofferingacomfortingpillowforourreturn flight,forwesoonfoundourselvesreturninghomeindarkness.