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$17.99 USA/$21.99 CAN/£12.99 UK Find travel news & deals, expert advice,

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Itineraries, walking tours, and

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Visit Tokyo's oldest temple, Sensoji, to request the favors of

Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. See chapter 7.

11th Edition 11th Edition

Tokyo

To

k

y

o

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Beijing Shanghai Tokyo C H I N A R U S S I A NORTH KOREA SOUTH KOREA NORTH KOREA SOUTH KOREA J AP AN J AP AN 50 mi 0 110˚ F 100˚ F 50˚ F 60˚ F 70˚ F 80˚ F 90˚ F 40˚ F 32˚ F 20˚ F 10˚ F 0˚ F -10˚ F -20˚ F 40˚ C 30˚ C 20˚ C 10˚ C -18˚ C 0˚ C -10˚ C -30˚ C To convert F to C:

subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9 (.555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1.8 and add 32 32˚ F = 0˚ C To convert... U.S. gallons to liters...

Liters to U.S. gallons...

U.S. gallons to imperial gallons...

Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons....

Imperial gallons to liters...

Liters to imperial gallons...

multiply by 3.8 .26 .83 1.20 4.55 .22

1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liter

To convert... Ounces to grams... Grams to ounces... Pounds to kilograms... Kilograms to pounds... multiply by 28.35 .035 .45 2.20 To convert... inches to centimeters... centimeters to inches... feet to meters... meters to feet... yards to meters... meters to yards... miles to kilometers... kilometers to miles... multiply by 2.54 .39 .30 3.28 .91 1.09 1.61 .62 1 mi = 1.6 km 1 km = .62 km 1 ft = .30 m 1 m = 3.3 ft 1 g = .04 ounce 1 kg = 2.2 lb 1 ounce = 28 g 1 lb = .4555 kg CHUGOKU KANSAI MUTUSU-WAN

Tokyo

TOHOKU KANTO CHUBU TOHOKU KANTO CHUBU Ishikari Abukuma Ibi Sh ina n o Send ai Fuji

Sea of

Japan

Korea Strait

P A C I F I C

O C E A N

Fukushima Sado Island Izu Peninsula Tanega Yaku Tsu garu Str ait Uchiura-wan Lake Toya Tokyo Bay Lake Kasumigaura Erimo saki Nara Mt. Fuji Otaru Kuril Islands Chitose Noboribetsu Tomakomai Jozankei

HOKKAIDO

MUTUSU-WAN

HONSHU

Tokamachi CHUGOKU KANSAI JOSHIN-ETSU NAT’L PARK JOSHIN-ETSU NAT’L PARK ISE-SHIMA NAT’L PARK ISE-SHIMA NAT’L PARK ASO NAT’L PARK

KYUSHU

SHIKOKU

Asahigawa Sapporo Sapporo

Tokyo

Akashi Kanazawa Takaoka Takayama Hirosaki Aomori Aomori Hachinohe Morioka Akita Wakkanai Abashiri Hakodate Obihiro DAISETSUZAN NAT’L PARK DAISETSUZAN NAT’L PARK AKAN NAT’L PARK AKAN NAT’L PARK SHIKOTSU-TOYA NAT’L PARK RIKUCHU-KAIGAN NAT’L PARK RIKUCHU-KAIGAN NAT’L PARK Sakata Yamagata Sendai Hitachi Mito Nikko Niigata Kushiro Yokohama Hakone Shizuoka Shimoda Atami Shuzenji Nagoya Kyoto Nagoya Osaka Matsumoto Kyoto Toba Toba Tokushima Takamatsu Takamatsu Kochi Kobe Okayama Matsue Hiroshima Beppu Shimonoseki Nagasaki Kagoshima Ibusuki Miyazaki Fukuoka Sasebo Kumamoto Kamakura Mashiko 0 0 100 100 200 kilometers 200 miles

Thru toThru to Musashi-kosugiMusashi-kosugi

Higashi-Higashi-ikebukuroikebukuro EdogawabashiEdogawabashi Ginza-ichitome Ginza-ic hitome Kagurazaka Kaguraza ka MyogadaneMyogadane Ochia-minami-Ochi a-mina m i-nagasaki i-nagasaki Kyokumitsu-kyogijoKyokumitsu-kyogijo Ushigome-Ush igom e-kaguitazaka kagu itazaka

Ushigome-Ushigome- yanagicho yanagic

ho Wakamatsu-Wakama ts u-kawada ka wa da Waseda Waseda Hanno Hanno

Itabashi-Itabashi- kuyakushomae kuyakushomae

Shin-Shin- nihonbashi nihonbashi

Sendagaya Sendagay a

KojimachiKojimachi

Nishi-Nishi- shinjuko shinjuk

o NijubashimaeNijubashimae Higashi-Higashi- shingukushinguku Nishi-takashimadaira Shin-takashimadaira Takashimadaira Nishidai Hasune Shimura-sanchome Shimura-sakaue Motohasunuma Itabashi-honcho Itabashi- kuyakushomae Shin-itabashi Nishi-sugamo Shinrin-koen Eidan-narimasu Eidan-akatsuka Heiwadai Hikawadai Sen kawa Kanamecho Hikarigaoka Nerima-kasugacho Toshimaen Shin-egota Ochia-minami- nagasaki Ochiai Akabane-iwabuchi Shimo Oji-kamiya Nishigahara Hon-komagome Sengoku Hokusan Uchisaiwaicho Onarimon Shiba-koen Shirokanegai Shirokanegai Thru to Musashi-kosugi Roppongi-ichitome Todaimae Higashi-ikebukuro Gokokuji Edogawabashi Kojimachi Sakuradamon Ginza-ichitome Shin tomicho Toyosu Tatsumi Thru to Toyo-katsutadai Thru to Tsudanuma

Baraki- nakayama Myaden Gyotoku Minami- gyotoku Urayasu Kasai Nishi-kasai

Minami- sunamachi Toyocho Kiba Takebashi Kagurazaka Waseda Minami- asagaya Shin-koenji Higashi-koenji Shin-nakano Nakane-shimbashi Nakano- fujimicho Honancho Nishi- shinjuko Shinjuku- gyoenmae Yotsuya-sanchome Myogadane Shin-otsuka Nishi-shinjuko-gochome Tochomae Kyokumitsu-kyogijo Tsukijis hi jo Kach ido ki Dai ba Kiyosumi- shirakawa Shin-okachimachi Ushigome- kaguitazaka Ushigome- yanagicho Wakamatsu- kawada Higashi- shinguku Hanno

Thru to Hashimoto (on Keio Line)

Akebonobashi Iwamotocho Sumiyoshi Hamacho Kikukawa Nishi- ojima Ojima Higashi- ojima Funabori Ichinoe Mizue Shinezaki Thru to Toride Kita-ayase

Sendagi Nazu Yushima Nijubashimae

Akasaka

Nogizaka

Yoyogi-koen

Thru to Hon-atsugi Thru to Chuo-rinkan

Hanzomon Suitengumai Thru to Kituna Hiro-o Kamiyacho Tsukiji Kodemmacho Iriya Minowa Minami-senju Thru to Tobu-dobutsu-koen Thru to Urawa-misono Aoto Honjo- azumabashi Takana-Wadai Togoshi Magome Nishi-magome

Thru trains run on Keihin-kyuko Line

Gaienmae Toranomon Kyobashi Suehirocho Inaricho Tawar amachi Thru to Mitaka Takaracho Akabanebashi Osaki Tamachi Uguisudani Nippori Tabata Kaminakazato Otsuka Mejiro Shin- okubo Oimachi Maihama Kasai- Rinkaikoen Shin- nihonbashi Shinanomachi Sendagaya Wakoshi Nerima Nakai Ikebukuro Higashi-nakano Nakano Ogikubo Nakano- sakaue Sugamo Kasuga Korakuen Suidobashi Jimbocho Otemachi Hibiya Yurakucho Mita Shirokane- takanawa Meguro Iidabashi Kudanshita Ichigaya Nagatacho Akasaka-mitsuke Tsukishima Shin-kiba Nishi-funabashi Nihombashi Kayabacho Monzen-nakacho Takadanobaba Shinjuku Kotake-mukaihara Shinjuku- nishiguchi Yetsuya Kokkai- gijidomae Tameike-sanno Kasumigaseki Ginza Higashi-ginza Hatchobori Tokyo Awajicho Ogawamachi Shin-ochanomizu Ochanomizu Hongo-sanchome Yoyogi

Aoyama- itchome Roppongi

Azabu-juban Daimon Hamamatsucho Morishita Ryogoku Kuramae Ueno-okachimachi Naka-okachimachi Ueno-hirokoji Shinjuku- sanchome Bakuro- yokoyama Higashi- nihombashi Bakurocho Motoyawata Yoyogi-uehara Harajuku Meiji-jingumae Omote-sando Nishi-nippori Machiya Kita-senju Ayase Shibuya Mitsukoshimae Naka-meguro Ebisu Ningyocho Akihabara Ueno Komagome Oji Nakanobu Gotanda Sengakuji Shinagawa Shimbashi Asakusabashi Asakusa Oshiage Kanda

TOBU TOJO LINE

SEIBU IKEBUKURO LINE

SEIBU SHINJUKU LINE

KEIO LINE

ODAKYU LINE

KEIO INOKASHIRA LINE TOKYU DEN-EN TOSHI LINE

TOKYU

TOYOKO LINE

TOKYU

OIMACHI LINE

TOKYU MEGURO LINE

TOKYU IGEKAMI LINE

KEIHIN KYUKO LINE

TOKYO MONORAIL

YURIKAMOME LINE

RINKAI LINE

KEISEI LINE

KEISEI LINE

TOBU ISEZAKI LINE

SAITAMA RAILWAY LINE T-CAT Tokyo International Airport (Haneda) New Tokyo International Airport (Narita) Imperial Palace Ginza Marunouchi Hibiya Tozai Chiyoda Yurakucho Yurakucho (New Line) Hanzomon Nanboku Asakusa Mita Shinjuku Oedo JR Lines Streetcar Private Railways Transfer Station

Nakai

KEIO

T O K Y O

SUBWAYS

AND OTHER TRAINS

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Tokyo

11th Edition

by Beth Reiber

01_537640-ffirs.indd i

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Published by:

W I L E Y P U B L I S H I N G , I N C .

111 River St.

Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza-tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

ISBN 978-0-470-53764-0 Editor: Stephen Bassman

Production Editor: Michael Brumitt Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Photo Editor: Richard Fox

Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services

Front cover photo: A comic book shop in the Shibuya district. ©Jochen Tack/imagebroker.net/ PhotoLibrary

Back cover photo: The Sensoji Temple and Five-Story Pagoda in the Asakusa neighborhood. ©Seiji Tajima/amanaimages/Corbis

For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002.

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Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1

01_537640-ffirs.indd ii

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C O N T E N T S

LIST OF MAPS

vi

1 THE BEST OF TOKYO

1

1 The Most Unforgettable

Travel Experiences . . . .2

2 The Best Splurge Hotels . . . .3

3 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . . . .4

4 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences . . . .4

5 The Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost). . . .5

6 The Best Offbeat Experiences . . . .5

7 The Best Neighborhoods for Getting Lost . . . .6

8 The Best Museums . . . .7

2 TOKYO IN DEPTH

8

1 Tokyo Today. . . .8

A Face in the Crowd . . . .9

2 Looking Back at Tokyo. . . .11

Dateline . . . .11

3 Shrines & Temples: Religion in Japan . . . .17

4 Tokyo in Popular Culture: Books & Film . . . .18

5 Eating & Drinking in Tokyo . . . .20

6 Social Skills 101 . . . .27

7 Dealing with the Language Barrier . . . .31

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO TOKYO

33

1 When to Go. . . .33

Tokyo Calendar of Events . . . .35

The Masterless Samurai . . . .39

2 Entry Requirements . . . .40

3 Getting There & Getting Around . . . .42

Transfers on the Subway & Train . . . .49

4 Money & Costs . . . .50

What Things Cost in Tokyo . . . .51

5 Health . . . .53

6 Safety . . . .54

7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .54

8 Sustainable Tourism. . . .56

General Resources for Green Travel . . . .57

9 Special-Interest Trips & Escorted General-Interest Tours. . . .58

10 Staying Connected. . . .59

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iv C ONTENT S T OK Y O

4 TOKYO NEIGHBORHOODS & SUGGESTED

ITINERARIES

63

1 Getting to Know Tokyo. . . .63

Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .69

2 The Best of Tokyo in 1 Day . . . .74

3 The Best of Tokyo in 2 Days . . . .76

4 The Best of Tokyo in 3 Days . . . .78

5 WHERE TO STAY

81

1 Best Bets for Accommodations. . . .81

2 Japanese & Western-Style Accommodations. . . .83

Love Hotels . . . .84

3 Selecting Accommodations . . . .86

Tips for Saving on Your Hotel Room . . . .89 4 Very Expensive . . . .90 Family-Friendly Hotels . . . .96 5 Expensive . . . .98 6 Moderate . . . 106 7 Inexpensive . . . 113

6 WHERE TO DINE

122

1 Best Bets for Dining . . . 122

2 Restaurant Essentials . . . 123

3 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . 126

4 Ginza, Hibiya & Shimbashi. . . 129

5 Tokyo Station—Marunouchi & Nihombashi . . . 136 6 Tsukiji . . . 137 7 Asakusa . . . 138 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . 141 8 Ueno . . . 141 9 Shinjuku . . . 143

10 Harajuku & Aoyama . . . 147

11 Shibuya . . . 153

12 Ebisu. . . 156

13 Roppongi & Nishi Azabu . . . 158

14 Akasaka . . . 165

15 Akihabara/Kanda. . . 169

7 WHAT TO SEE & DO IN TOKYO

171

Did You Know? . . . 172

1 The Top Attractions . . . 173

2 Five Unforgettable Ways to Immerse Yourself in Japanese Culture . . . 179

Pachinko Parlors . . . 180

3 Parks & Gardens. . . 182

A Hiking Getaway. . . 183

Cherry-Blossom Viewing in Ueno Park . . . 184

4 Shrines & Temples. . . 186

5 More Museums . . . 187

Sightseeing in Tokyo Without Spending a Yen . . . 190

6 Spectacular City Views . . . 198

7 Especially for Kids . . . 199

8 Spectator Sports . . . 202

02_537640-ftoc.indd iv

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v C ONTENT S TO K Y O

8 TOKYO STROLLS

204

Walking Tour 1: Asakusa. . . 204

The Floating World of Yoshiwara. . . 207

Walking Tour 2: Harajuku & Aoyama. . . 209

Walking Tour 3: Ueno . . . 213

Walking Tour 4: Yanaka . . . 217

9 SHOPPING

224

1 The Shopping Scene . . . 224

2 Shopping A to Z . . . 225

The Magical World of Vending Machines . . . 235

10 TOKYO AFTER DARK

246

1 The Performing Arts. . . 247

2 The Club & Music Scene . . . 251

3 The Bar Scene. . . 257

4 Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . 264

5 Movie Theaters. . . 265

11 SIDE TRIPS FROM TOKYO

267

1 Kamakura . . . 267 2 Nikko . . . 274 3 Mashiko. . . 282 4 Yokohama . . . 283 5 Hakone . . . 289 6 Mount Fuji . . . 297 7 Izu Peninsula. . . 299

12 FAST FACTS

306

1 Fast Facts: Tokyo . . . 306 2 Airline Websites . . . 314

13 A GLOSSARY OF USEFUL JAPANESE TERMS

316

14 A JAPANESECHARACTER INDEX

324

INDEX

327

General Index. . . 327 Accommodations Index . . . 336 Restaurant Index. . . 337 02_537640-ftoc.indd v 02_537640-ftoc.indd v 4/16/10 3:32 PM4/16/10 3:32 PM

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L I S T O F M A P S

Tokyo at a Glance . . . 64 Central Tokyo . . . 66 Tokyo in 1 Day . . . 75 Tokyo in 2 Days . . . 77 Tokyo in 3 Days . . . 79

Ginza & Hibiya . . . 92

Shinjuku . . . 94 Nihombashi . . . 99 Akasaka . . . 103 Shinagawa . . . 105 Asakusa . . . 109 Ueno . . . 117

Harajuku & Aoyama . . . 149

Shibuya . . . 155

Roppongi . . . 159

Tokyo Attractions . . . 174

Walking Tour: Asakusa . . . 205

Walking Tour: Harajuku & Aoyama . . . 211

Walking Tour: Ueno. . . 215

Walking Tour: Yanaka . . . 219

Side Trips from Tokyo . . . 269

Kamakura . . . 271 Nikko . . . 275 Yokohama . . . 285 Hakone . . . 291 02_537640-ftoc.indd vi 02_537640-ftoc.indd vi 4/16/10 3:32 PM4/16/10 3:32 PM

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